Septum rings could replace engagement rings, or so hopes Delfina Delettrez, the notorious Italian designer who has recently launched her new spring 2016 jewelry collection titled Faceted. The collection shows an eclectic variety of items, which all have one thing in common – the purpose of subverting the conventional norms.
Delfina is a young Italian jewelry designer born in Rome, who spent a lot of time working as an intern for Chanel. However, although being surrounded by the Chanel N°5 scent for more than a year could be enough to inherit at least a slight haute couture sense of fashion, Delfina’s exquisite style has more to do with her bloodline: just as her great-grandmother Adele Fendi, her grandmother Anna Fendi and her mother Silvia Fendi, Delfina has always been surrounded by pieces of art, and has always expressed a great passion for the fashion industry. However, instead of using her talent to create clothing lines, she decided to dedicate herself to jewels, releasing her first jewelry collection in 2007.
Even if her first influences came from the glam rock/gothic scene (her first items were mainly pieces of jewelry that had skulls, crosses or insect shapes), shortly after her creations turned more romantic and then also surrealistic. However, there has always been one common theme in all her collections: the human body. Whether it was presented in a more gothic or surrealistic version, the human body has, in fact, been a permanent feature of Delfina’s jewelry line-ups.
For the Delfina Delettrez spring 2016 jewelry collection she concentrated all her artistic efforts onto the human face, designing some hyper-modern earrings, necklaces and rings adorned with eye and lip motifs, which seem to be a natural and effortless development of her career. Some of her items have simple, yet not slapdash designs with just one single gemstone, while others are definitely more whimsical with their elaborate rows of diamonds. Several marquise-cut diamonds take the ‘eye motif’ to a more mystical turn, and show how much we should not take Delfina’s designs for granted (whether we like them or not).
At the same time, it is interesting to compare Delfina’s realizations to other designers’ versions of the ‘eye motif’, like, for example, to fellow compatriot Chiara Ferragni’s ‘Flirting eyes’ trademark (apparently designing eyes is the new black). Sure, de gustibus non disputandum est, as the Latin loved to say, and we are not here to decide which one is better; the only reason why this issue is interesting is due to Delfina’s approach to jewelry design which, according to her point of view, is more like a social statement and an artistic work rather than a mere object one can use. Not for nothing, describing her philosophy, she has recently stated in an interview: “I like the idea that instead of wearing masks you can wear your jewelry to create a different face.” Although the expression ‘we wear masks’ could give the green light to never-ending symposium about life, death and all that matters, we should just take her quote and change face with tradition. And that’s where the nose ring makes its big entrance.
Delfina started working on nose rings last years. At first she just made some minimalist rings, in various shapes, but then things got out of hand. It all began with funny additional shapes, like mustaches and baguettes, but then, all of a sudden, septum rings stopped being a mere object and started their new life as a social statement, shouting from all over the place that women should move on from the concept of the engagement ring and should instead adopt everything, from nose rings to bracelets, as a formal agreement to future marriages. Is Delfina trying to tell us we should break free from obsolete traditions? Although her Faceted jewelry collection for spring 2016 is certainly noteworthy, and may even sign a new era for jewelry design, it is not meant for those who prefer simple and basic designs and less glittery jewels.
Photos courtesy of Delfina Delettrez