It seems to be a year of the 10th anniversary celebrations, as Phillip Lim joins Alexander Wang in partying it fashion warrior style on the New York Fashion Week just a few hours back. With the runway positioned in such a way as to evoke a sense of stopping to smell the flowers, the theme becoming the title of the show, it quickly became clear that the theme of the 3.1 Phillip Lim spring/summer 2016 collection we are looking at is none other than one taken from an earthy angle. There is just something about the color palette, bringing in gentle tones from the earth and the sky – including white and grey and blue and green, that helps render the quirky femininity presented so lovely to the naked eye. The palette is of minerals really, with many of the materials having an intriguing lightweight technical shine to them. This includes the baseball jackets and anoraks, the paper bag shorts and the sportier pieces that show off certain polish despite their more casual appeal.
If there is one word to describe the entire collection, that would be calling it calm, what with the color scheme and the lack of businesses in the asymmetrical cuts and folds, spliced fabrics and wrapped straps. The trend of keeping most skirts below the knees is continued with ease, perhaps even dropping the hems lower to exactly mid-calf, while open toe boots in gold, white and floral designs appear on nearly every foot walking down that runway.
Ankle cropped pants are lovely, especially in the dove grey, combined with a spring green floral inspired sleeveless top. On the other hand, we are also given a sexier feel with tight fitting mini shorts mixed in with pillowing jackets and paired with black open toe boots rising to just above mid-calf. Micro shorts do make their entrance here, along with bandeau tops and miniskirts, cut-outs in the pieces adding to their allure. Shimmering dresses in white pearl fall to just above the knees, while khaki colors in shining materials are cinched at the waist tightly with a belt ribbon in the same material. Interesting enough is the showing off of rompers on the runway, effectively bringing this trend back to the forefront, even if it may be a look that is slowly but surely being placed on the back burner once again.
Our favourites among the pieces include a green satin bandeau top with a pretty knotted shoulder strap on one side, combined with its matching skirt wrapped around the waist and falling to mid-calf, a high slit going up the right leg and bringing to mind some of the more aggressive cuts from 2015. With all the 3.1 Phillip Lim signatures appearing on the catwalk throughout the show, it is no wonder we fell in love so easily. From the pinstripes to the ruffles, the billowing fabrics or floral collage prints, scuba tops and bomber jackets, the organza, silks and satins abound, we have to say that this is one designer, who knows how to grow his brand from the fledgling seeds planted 10 years back.
Photos courtesy of Vogue