Eclecticism at its purest, the newest Acne Studios fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection, unveiled a few hours ago at Paris Fashion Week, perfectly embodies the label’s characteristic spirit in which it was originally drawn up. Futuristic and effortlessly urban-chic, the collection’s shapes reflect the main Scandinavian cities, with skyscrapers, parks and creative graffiti gracefully coexisting, balancing the different perspectives. One could definitely spot Jonny Johansson’s signature details throughout the entire collection, as he always intertwines fashion with street culture, architecture and art. The lineup also radiates some clear glam rock vibes Johansson himself probably collected, while playing in various rock bands during his younger years.
Sartorially impeccable, the Acne Studios fall 2016 ready-to-wear lineup is geometrically refined too, and what’s even more interesting is that most of the pieces seem to be magically frozen up the air. Besides being skillfully tailored, the pieces denote Jonny Johansson’s signature looks too, namely a delicate manoeuvring when it comes to detailing and an eclectic, if not even whimsical use of juxtaposing designs and different kinds of materials. Jonny is, in fact, never afraid to alternate, for example, sleek with sheer fabrics, creating an incredibly well-balanced equilibrium that easily lightens up the outfits designed by him (even when they consist of heavy and bulky pieces).
And voluminous, if not totally unwieldy, are the jackets, coats and windbreakers available in the collection, which may not be regarded as easily wearable but surely lessen the distances between haute couture, ready-to-wear and independent fashion for sure. Oversized and billowy, these pieces create harmonious combinations with the lineup’s curve-hugging figures of the stockings, skinny pants and vinyl leggings as well, not to mention those astounding bodices and gloomy boots. On the other hand, when the looks get tighter, Johansson adds detachable puffy sleeves and fancy fleece neck warmers.
As for the color palette, the collection is filled with grays mostly, but also blacks, rusty oranges and basically all the possible sky shades, from dark stormy blue to crystal clear turquoise. To emphasize the whole urban concept, Johansson greatly employed vinyl and gloomy attachments wherever he wanted to, giving the entire collection some cool Sixties rock ’n’ roll vibes as well.
Most of the lineup’s waistless frocks with shimmering striped motifs shriek ‘Hey mama welcome to the ‘60s, coming just in time to pass the collection’s main theme to the Nineties, wherein Matrix-inspired makeup looks and quirky hairstyles dominate the scene. Nude-toned looks with animal motifs are then just the icing on the cake, serving us an array of hybrid pieces that make the models look like creatures from another planet.
Photos courtesy of Vogue