After feasting your eyes on the divine and celestial Alexander McQueen fall/winter 2016-2017 RTW collection unveiled yesterday in the evening at the Royal Horticultural Halls in London, you will have a snowball’s chance in hell to break the spell cast over you forever and ever. Uttering that the collection was teeming with all those feminine typical coquettish butterflies, lips and lipsticks, moons and stars, flowers, birdies, some midges and eyes quite palpable on a series of pieces is sort of telling nothing about that magical bounty Sarah Burton paid us yesterday. That sweet baby in her womb to come to life in two week’s time might have in some aspects chipped in her mother’s creative mind reaching its zenith, this time registering the fall 2016-2017 lineup as the most paradisiacal in the brand’s history.
“It’s all about nighttime and dreams, almost sleepwalking, in a state where reality and dreams become blurred,” said the designer backstage and knuckled down to manifest every single word uttered with every single millimeter tailored and designed by the brand’s experienced team. The show kicked off with pieces driving at reality under the guise of black cashmere or leather coats cut in precise geometrical shapes and hand painted with pocket watches, butterflies and lips all over the map.
The Alexander McQueen fall 2016 show was gradually veering off reality leading us to some shadowy and vague dream zone, where things took more diaphanous, ruffled and scarcely tactile spin. We saw a couple of billowy dresses with shoulders cut to fall off in some nonchalant way and other chaotic slashes here and there conveying more lunatic impression. Some black and powdery pink lacy dresses with bottoms going densely pleated and the bodices hosting scintillating butterflies in apple-pie order immediately followed, while those cobweb-fine knitted dresses in cream, amaranth pink shades were really the incarnation of daintiness and subtlety.
But if you are after some crème de la crème samples to throw yourself into equilibrium, come and get them at the end of the show trotting out some museum-worthy intricate pieces that were in frantic competition to take the winning crown, but at the end putting up to live in harmonious symbiosis. Two grandiose illusion dresses all encrusted with tiny star dust and teamed with capes were crooning a sweet lullaby, while another naked dress, one side of which was embellished with a golden goat stretching across the whole length, was somehow shocking. A couple of sophisticated bejewelled gowns and a modicum of illusion dresses with a plethora of images as if extracted from the dreams of a babe in the woods were sending word about countless days spent on that sophisticated handicraft.
This was all about night with vague dreams, moon and stars staring at people through windows and of course, all the attributes of lounging bedroom. Seeing a range of bejewelled lingerie pieces more often worn underneath black mannish suits and teamed with pants with buckled ribbons wrapped around was not something unexpected or unlooked-for.
What was really out of blue were those eiderdowns taken from a bedroom and shaped into coats lined with marabou and decorated with floral and butterfly prints or else with 3D butterflies, like that closing one worn over a breathtaking gown embellished with shimmering dust and the bottom all going ostrich feathers. Good night! Dream your sweetest dreams!
Photos couretsy of Vogue