Alexander McQueen has always known how to make a completely cohesive collection, especially with Sarah Burton as creative director. For the Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection, we were introduced to some staple McQueen styles and silhouettes as seen with a focus on some of today’s most common trends.
The collection was right at home at Paris Fashion Week, walking amid many other collections with focuses on the ’70s and femininity. But, of course, the McQueen house has its own, very unique spin to put on these commonalities, in the most refreshing and stunning way.
There were some key pieces here this season that were inherently similar to the looks from last season, and were essentially reiterations through the lens of the new trends; this was most notable in the sheer black lace dresses that walked near the end of the show. The ’70s trends were most notable in billowy bohemian dresses in light floral patterns and in two pairs of dated jeans with appliqued flower prints, the latter of which could have translated into the next two fashion decades as well.
But regardless of exact fashion era parameters, the Alexander McQueen spring 2017 collection was sensual at its core. Burton found inspiration for this collection at a Scottish island cluster named the Shetland, where she picked up these key notes of romance that bolstered her already-romantic design sensibilities. The resulting garments that walked the catwalk were rather poetic because of this, especially when you throw in the classic McQueen juxtaposition of hard and soft; this is one concept that has flourished under the hand of Burton.
So even though the softness of romance was strongly at play, there was also femininity in its most powerful sense taking the reins. Where there was flowing fabric, there was structure; when there was sweet fabric, there was masculine-esque tailoring. Burton took these two sides of the coin and celebrated each.
Even everything down to the location of the show was divine; the gardens at the Luxembourg were lined with a bouncy runway that was made to resemble the terrain of the islands from where she drew her inspiration. The runway was constructed of patterned carpets all overlapping to create this bumpy effect.
The clothes, on the other hand, had such a smooth interplay, with each look simply melting into the next in a perfect display of her mastery of cohesion. Each new look had a semblance of the one before it; sometimes a garment was repeated in a new iteration, sometimes two looks shared the same key design feature.
This was most notable in places like the two ruffled mini dresses that popped up halfway through the show. The first was a white floral number with the large ruffle detail cutting diagonally down; this was an overtly feminine piece that we could easily see on so many young women.
What followed was its more rebellious sister. This was a black leather dress, which still featured the same floral pattern and structured cups; the ruffles here showed up in the skirt portion. These two looks were night and day. Both were adorable and totally wearable, and they showed two different iterations of the same general design.
The two finale looks. Both gowns were totally sheer, but with vastly different silhouettes and moods; yet, each had a large wave design on the front. Not only did this tie the two looks together in a final act of cohesion, but also it was simply beautiful to begin with, especially noting the inspiration source.
We know to expect great things from an Alexander McQueen runway show, and this season even further reminded us of that. Next spring is going to be a fabulous one for McQueen clients, and with the versatility of many of the garments (sweaters and jackets, most notably) so will the better part of the year.
Photos courtesy of Vogue