Many Altuzarra fans out there, who have had the hots for his unique style and aesthetics from time immemorial, are likely to have marked February 14 with red and not in anticipation to receive intimate gifts from their beaus as Valentine’s Day was on, but in high hopes to feast on delicious tidbits a la Altuzarra. February 14 has come and gone, albeit the talented designer’s perennial flair for beauty and style reaching its apogee via the Altuzarra fall/winter 2016-2017 RTW line is to stay with us for a long time yet.
Joseph Altuzarra’s inspirational sources are going from strength to strength with the arrival of every runway show this time around touching on the film Only Lovers Left Alive by Jim Jarmusch shot in 2013. But if you calculate to see some typical-of-vampires bloody scenes, Tilda Swinton’s deathlike pale face, Mia Wasikowska’s devil-may-care demeanor or Tom Hiddleston’s essence awash with melancholy, you are barking up the wrong tree, for sure. What has aroused sheer admiration within Altuzarra was the heroes’ great curiosity for life and the world of human beings. “They have very esoteric interests, and they live in a lush but isolated world. I wanted this show to be about trying different things not necessarily connected,” the designer explained backstage when bringing out into the open his vision over the collection.
This was a real juxtaposition of unexpected colors and shapes, unlooked-for prints and embellishments, an occurrence when Persian paisleys are entering into symbiosis with teeny-weeny floral prints, like that amazing outfit consisting of a floral blazer, a shirt again covered with floral prints but of abruptly other sort, while Altuzarra’s signature midi skirt with side slits is bringing about an amalgamation of paisleys with botanical motifs. Are you looking for yet other shocking symbiosis samples? They are at every turn whether you look at the mix of a black and white striped top, the floral printed pants and the dark green blazer or else the mishmash of various geometrical prints under the guise of diamonds, zigzags and abstract lines.
This was fall/winter ready-to-wear collection not only by its denomination but by its entire essence and target as well. There was an abundance of warm and cozy shearlings in burgundy and black shades or else in those floral motifs heading the cast throughout the whole show; there was a handful of trench coats and blazers and a modicum of fur coats for brass monkey days. The chunky knitted blouses with wide turtlenecks were to parade miniature handicraft – leather ropes weaved in to make pretty effective braided embellishments, while the boots happening in every possible length, ranging from ankle to thigh-high ones, were magnifying the whole cold atmosphere around.
Patchwork pieces rendering out cool colorblocks were to set the world on fire by bringing so near the cobalt blue, pine green, fuchsia, burgundy and seal brown, the tasseled bibs of tops were oft-times conveying somewhat shabby yet so cool-looking impression, while those amazing handkerchief maxi dresses all covered with Persian pickles worn either alone or over turtlenecks were really some pumpkins.
But those, who are searching high and low for something to throw them into loss of equilibrium, come and get it at the end of the show when the designer buckled down to wine and dine us with black diaphanous pieces, embellished with glittering sequins, but then upping the ante even more with two mind-blowing red-carpet worthy dresses in Marsala red and pistachio green shades, scintillating far and wide and beating off the gloomy air of the vampires in a flash.
Photos courtesy of Vogue