Appointed as Saint Laurent’s new creative director in April, Anthony Vaccarello has just confirmed he is ending his eponymous brand to better focus on the French Maison’s seasonal creations and runway shows.
Rumors that he was going to put his 8-year-old eponymous label on hold (starting from this October) began spreading around as soon as the Belgian designer replaced beloved Hedi Slimane as the Maison’s creative director. Quickly it became a reality when Vaccarello himself declared they were not only rumors, but rather a fact.
Now, with roughly more than four weeks separating us from his first-ever debut runway show with Saint Laurent at the Parisian Fashion Week, Anthony Vaccarello’s decision to put his namesake label on hold took a different path, with the designer actually ending it for good.
“This adventure has been amazing but I now feel the need to fully focus on this new project,” explained Vaccarello in an official statement, thanking also “everyone who supported his brand since its launch in 2008 and made it so successful.”
Although knowing one’s limits and being willing to concentrate on one project is as humble as it sounds, many are already showing signs of dissatisfaction.
Famous for his second-skin sensual designs for Versus Versace (he has always been one of Donatella Versace’s favorite designers), Anthony Vaccarello’s sultriest and more glam-rock creations always amazed those who assiduously followed his eponymous line’s seasonal shows. Many were actually looking forward to seeing how he had planned to artistically separate such different lines in terms of styles, designs and motifs.
Filling in the big shoes Hedi Slimane left is, however, an extremely hard task to complete, and Anthony Vaccarello knows it. Even harder is trying to create something new out of one of the fashion industry’s most visionary, innovative and cosmopolitan legacies. Saint Laurent Paris (when working as the Maison’s creative director, Slimane dropped the “Yves”) requires dedication and creativity, and we know Vaccarello is a glutton for punishment when it comes to fashion.
He was also specifically chosen for this position due to his balanced aesthetics and at times even masculine motifs (the latter were dear to Yves Saint Laurent himself too), so we understand he may prefer to put all of his energy into one (big) label in order not to disappoint any expectation.
“Anthony Vaccarello impeccably balances elements of provocative femininity and sharp masculinity in his silhouettes. He is the natural choice to express the essence of Yves Saint Laurent,” declared Yves Saint Laurent’s CEO Francesca Bellettini back in April.
Anthony Vaccarello’s first collection for Saint Laurent is going to be presented on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, Tuesday, September 27th. As for what appears to be Anthony Vaccarello’s last creations for his eponymous label, all of the Vaccarello’s FW 2016-17 collection’s pieces are already available in selected stores, as well as online at Forward, Net-a-Porter, Matches Fashion and Luisa Via Roma.
Photo courtesy of Vogue