With a glam rock attitude and a boyish style, Anthony Vaccarello’s spring/summer 2016 RTW collection was presented on the first day of Paris Fashion Week spring 2016. Hip-grazing high-slit dresses, miniskirts (or should we rather say microskirts?) and see-through fabrics are Vaccarello’s signature details, and were to a large extent employed in his latest collection as well. Like a marching army of unperturbed women, Vaccarello’s models were all dressed to impress, and seemed to fear nothing in their military-looking jackets.
Italian-Belgian fashion designer Vaccarello has never denied having some strong personal views about fashion, and has never been afraid to show them. Since his graduation in 2006, after designing a collection inspired by porn star Cicciolina, Vaccarello has initially started working under Karl Lagerfeld’s direction, becoming creative director of Versus Versace a few years later. In the meantime, since 2009, he has presented numerous eponymous ready-to wear collections that have always been some of the most critically acclaimed shows at Paris Fashion Week. Most of the critics and praises, depending on who is watching, are due to Vaccarello’s passion for bare skin, which he is not afraid to celebrate especially during his spring/summer collections.
The first part of the Anthony Vaccarello spring 2016 collection had indeed a fighter attitude, and consisted of black and khaki miniskirt suits with black leather trimmings, thigh-high slits and golden studs, as well as total black looks with spiky silver studs, skinny black trousers and asymmetrical flat sandals. These outfits, embraced even by the high-fashion model and It-Girl Edie Campbell, were enhanced both with strong dark makeup and other more au-naturel looks, with the messy ponytail hairstyles reminding some of you of the late ‘90s gothic/rock scene movement. Sheer button-down shirts confirm here Vaccarello’s desire to praise bare skin, while his skinny black scarves give the collection its ultimate mannish look (and are actually one of this autumn’s must-haves).
As the show progressed, the collection welcomed some more casual pieces, like average t-shirt dresses with digital pixelated face prints, as well as metallic red skirts and sequined dresses adorned with golden studs, which help Vaccarello give his personal version of the upcoming metallic trend. Even though skinny jeans and boyfriend ones with golden metallic details, floral shirts, mannish suits and wrap around shirt are nothing new to the fashion industry, Vaccarello manages to combine some of the most famous ‘90s trends with Greek inspired pieces. And some Greek inspiration touched also the last part of the collection, which embraced again the designer’s favorite color: black. Like amazons, Vaccarello’s models wear either one-shoulder dresses or tops, and military jackets without t-shirts underneath, making the contrast with their bare skin even more spectacular.
Vertiginous tight skirts with slits and dresses rigorously made of leather, along with asymmetrical jackets and tops, turn the Anthony Vaccarello spring 2016 ready-to-wear-collection into a declaration of independence of one’s body, and are surely going to raise some critics. However, we have to admit Vaccarello managed to skillfully represent what the Parisian Fashion Week is all about: new perspectives and unconventional ideas.
Photos courtesy of Vogue