Italian designer Antonio Marras unveiled his fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection at Milan Fashion Week a few hours ago, intertwining Gothic vibes with his island’s folkloric motifs. Born in Sardinia, a small yet very peculiar and breathtaking Italian island in the Mediterranean Sea, Marras has always loved turning fashion into a moment of experimentation, and has so far never failed combining his creative ideas with the handiness of actually tailoring a piece of clothing, using his terrific artisanal skills and rich fashion background (he grew up in his parents’ drapery shop, which made him develop a passion towards textiles).
Energetic like his previous collections, this particular lineup travels back in times and space, looking for ornaments and symbolic elements in other cultures (such as the Japanese) and making ample use of vintage fabrics, intricate garments and even modern patters. The collection could be regarded as a potpourri of Marras’ highly refined style and signature elements, as his taste in contrasts, patchworks of different materials, visible hems, brocades and lavish embroidery is clearly visible here, as well as his tendency to deconstruct the staples.
Deconstructed lines are also to be found both in the Medieval times-inspired costumes (which Marras has always been fond of) and in his island’s traditional costumes, the defining details of which differ from town to town and represent probably one of Sardinia’s biggest legacy. All designed way before the 20th century, Sardinia’s traditional costumes almost all feature dramatic A-line gowns, layered upper parts, intricate headdresses and fitting jackets, staples that Marras employed in this collection. He also used the main colors of the traditional Sardinian costumes, which include dark hues and contrasting embroideries, to recreate a specific richness in geometric ornaments.
While the first part of the Antonio Marras fall 2016 collection surely is the most intricate and elaborated, for the closing section Marras combined traditional lines, figures and cuts with modern patterns, such as big floral motifs, striped patterns and even animal prints. As for the fabrics, he mixed wool, which was very much used for the Sardinian wintery costumes, with leather, silk, velvet and jacquard cotton, making some of his proposals look even heavier in texture thanks to some well-served arrays of fringes and furry stripes. He did, however, also try to lighten some of the collection’s staples thanks to some delicate lace inserts and floaty pleated skirts.
The art of layering is particularly strong in this ready-to-wear collection, as it takes advantage of the fabrics’ matte and sleek effects, as well as the great variety of prints to give birth to pretty contrasting pieces. Never minimalistic, the Antonio Marras fall 2016 ready-to-wear lineup also features must-have proposals, such as Cubist coats, floral overalls and skirts, and total black outfits, which may not be regarded as too wearable, yet indeed one-of-a-kind.
Photos courtesy of Vogue