Antonio Marras’ Fall/Winter 2017-18 RTW Line Was Inspired by Eva Mameli and Pina Bausch

Dichotomist femininity made its appearance today at Milan Fashion Weeks thanks to Antonio Marras, whose fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection was inspired by Eva Mameli and Pina Bausch.

Antonio Marras Fall/ Winter 2017-18 RTW Collection – MFW

For his Antonio Marras fall/winter 2017-18 rtw collection, the Sardinian couturier created a sort of theatrical dialogue between two important figures from the Twentieth century on the runway, whose passions and references had got weaved together through Marras’ signature fil rouge and care for the figurative patterns.

But who were Eva Mameli and Pina Bausch? Why and how did designer Antonio Marras transpose their passions to fashion? Sassari-born Eva Mameli was a Sardinian botanist and university professor, who devoted her life to the study of nature. She was also mother to Italo Calvino, one of Italy’s most renowned authors.

German performer and dancer Pina Bausch was, on the other hand, a leading influence in the field of modern dance, with her unique blend movement still being one of ballet’s most iconic styles.

Antonio Marras Fall/ Winter 2017-18 RTW Collection – MFW

Antonio Marras Fall/ Winter 2017-18 RTW Collection – MFW

Both women were pioneers and vanguards of their times, with their talents and visionary minds still being celebrated nowadays. Antonio Marras, who often pays homage to people who really existed and changed history with their lives, brought both Mameli and Bausch onstage to make them meet and tell us their stories, paying a tribute not only to the two women, but to botany and ballet as a whole, too.

As for how he transposed such naturalistic and dancing patterns to fashion, the Antonio Marras fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection featured two main motifs, namely botanical embellishments and prints, and loads of tulle. The botanical patterns got also transposed to the men’s wear line, as this specific runway show was presented in the co-ed format. The men’s wear line, like the women’s, also featured well-played patchworks of different styles and appliqués, which could be linked to Bausch’s performance-art appeal and modern dancing style.

Antonio Marras Fall/ Winter 2017-18 RTW Collection – MFW

Antonio Marras Fall/ Winter 2017-18 RTW Collection – MFW

Antonio Marras Fall/ Winter 2017-18 RTW Collection – MFW

As for the main figures of the women’s collection, Marras’ take on the next colder seasons was not a strictly winter-approved one, as he alternated cozy, warm proposals with more lightweight, if not almost springy outfits. The former treated us to covetable long coats, structured jackets and midi skirts, which got often paired with ballet-inspired relaxed blouses refined with off-the-shoulder necklines.

The latter, on the other hand, appeared as a sort of Mameli-meets-Bausch inspiring dialogue, with hourglass figures, intricate embroideries and lace and tulle fabrics harmoniously going hand in hand with each other, serving up some of Antonio Marras’ most astounding looks ever.

One of the show’s best parts, which really gave us a glimpse of Antonio Marras’ approach to fashion, was the designer’s choice to ask some of his friends to walk for the show, which ultimately infused the collection with Antonio Marras’ signature familiar touch.

This is particularly vivid in his store in Milan, NonostanteMarras, too, as it is not “just” a concept store, but rather a multi-disciplinary experience through art, literature and fashion. If you happen to be in Milan, we recommend visiting it!

Antonio Marras Fall/ Winter 2017-18 RTW Collection – MFW

Antonio Marras Fall/ Winter 2017-18 RTW Collection – MFW

Photos courtesy of Vogue

Recent Posts

Fashion From the East Showcased at the Bridal Couture Week SS’18

The Bridal Couture Week SS’18 funneled in a series of exotic ethnic trends blended in with an infectiously voguish minimalism. While some designers, such as Sonya Battla, Fahad Hussayn, and HSY with his iconic collection...

Marchesa Bridal Spring 2018 Collection

Here we are with one of the spring 2018 bridal season’s most anticipated shows, Marchesa’s! The Marchesa bridal spring 2018 collection’s presentation left everybody in awe, also evoking naturalistically chic vibes, which were inspired by...

Viktor & Rolf Bridal Spring 2018 Collection

Dutch designer duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren continue to delve deeper into their search for conceptually conscious designs with their bridal collections as well, with their Viktor & Rolf bridal spring 2018 collection being...

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia Debut Oscar de la Renta Bridal Line for Spring 2018

Oscar de la Renta’s bridal spring 2018 collection was a well-rounded procession of wedding day options with a good range of designs to appeal to a varied number of brides for their big day. Some...

Elie Saab Bridal Spring 2018 Collection

The Elie Saab bridal spring 2018 collection was inspired by a garden where everything is in full bloom, but still managed to be soft, charming and striking. The designs featured the opulence we would expect...