Antonio Marras has been evolving his aesthetics and artistic references for more than a year now, with his collections being inevitably influenced by such ongoing changes. The latest Antonio Marras pre-fall 2017 collection is no less so, with the Italian/Sardinian designer adding another chapter to his artistic story thanks references to D. H. Lawrence’s novel “Lady Chatterley’s Lover”.
From Lawrence’s erotic novel, which was first published privately in 1928 (its unexpurgated version only came in the Sixties), Marras captured a sense of polished and intellectual eroticism, here often translated to modern, sensual animal prints combined with the sharp cuts and textured fabrics of the late Twenties and Thirties.
To fully embody the novel’s protagonists and contrasting aesthetics, Marras even transposed the main motifs of the social classes of the protagonists to each proposal, often mixing and matching them together. Oversized, raw jackets got juxtaposed with long lavish dresses in floral prints, while bon ton cape coats were paired with billowy pinstriped suits.
“At that time the book sounded as a political manifesto and was shrouded in a fog of scandal,” explained Antonio Marras while introducing his Antonio Marras pre-fall 2017 collection in his atelier. “When I read it, I was completely bewitched by its subversive subject, that inescapable, devastating attraction between an aristocratic woman and a working-class man.”
Of course, the collection’s 42 proposals got dipped into another equally intriguing main motif, whose spooky reminiscences and gloomy colors are to be found in David Lynch’s iconic TV-series – Twin Peaks. Aside from a few off-white accents and red-toned fil rouge, the Antonio Marras pre-fall 2017 collection is all about dark-toned grays, greens and blues, with each one of these colors being matched with its appropriate fabric and patterns.
Checkered prints in dark green and blue served as the preferred embellishments for tartan wool, while lighter colors and floral and animal motifs got printed on lightweight jacquard materials. Velvet and lace treated us to the Antonio Marras pre-fall 2017 collection’s most elegant and sensual outfits, which will likely appeal to those who love standard Marras feminine aesthetics.
Raw, textured wool served as the base for Lady Chatterley’s lover-inspired accessories, such as big, oversized scarves and flared cape coats, while leather and fur helped refine the collection’s stilettos, platform shoes and bags.
With its lookbook captured by Antonio Marras’ son Efisio, this Antonio Marras pre-fall 2017 collection marks an important milestone for the designer, who is clearly focusing on a sort of affordable, handmade and haute couture kind of fashion, rather than on an incoherent array of seasonal collections. Marras is a 360° artist (as proven by his “Nulla dies sine linea” exhibition at Milan’s Triennale, too), and is definitely going to keep on unconventionally showcasing his views on fashion for many years to come.
Photos courtesy of Vogue