Extremely variegated and coherent, the newest Antonio Marras spring/summer 2017 collection overwhelmed the Milan Fashion Week with designer Antonio Marras’ knack for patchwork motifs, as well as with his thoughtful, fluid approach to fashion. Inspired by photographer Malick Sidibé’s nightlife shots in Bamako, Mali, in the ’50s and ’60s, the 77-piece collection brought both the Sardinian designer’s menswear and womenswear line-ups onstage, yet in a more distinctive and coexistent way unlike his fellow colleagues’ collections.
Antonio Marras alternated his men’s and women’s proposals making sure it was evident for us how deeply interconnected the two lines were with one another, as he translated the motifs of the womenswear pieces to the men’s, and vice versa.
By working with mix-and-matched patchwork motifs and making ample use of flared lines, the Sardinian fashion designer managed to skillfully keep an unparalleled and almost narrative synergy between the two lines, at times even interspersing moments of pure femininity and masculinity with more gender-bender proposals. We wouldn’t be surprised at all if some of the latter could make it into next summer’s gender-fluid fashion trend.
As for the womenswear line, Antonio Marras alternated statement gender-neutral pieces with ultra feminine staples, which in return transported the collection to the Fifties.
Perfectly fitted Fifties-inspired party dresses added a sort of fresh sensuality to the collection, enhancing the waists with their unapologetically chic hourglass figures. Marras, who is an old hand when it comes to modernizing classics, managed, however, to revamp them with more contemporary patchworks of denim fabrics, embellishing them with patches of old-school-inspired flowers too. A sense of the undone was captured throughout the array of party dresses with shredded hems, which filtered the proposals through a more carefree, summer-ready lens.
Floral patterns appear on more Eighties-inspired pieces too, with revisited varsity jackets coming paired with balloon skirts adorned with scalloped lace hems. They, however, soon leave space for Marras’ signature checkered prints, shining in their most cheerful sense. Coherent with the entire line-up, Marras’ checkered patterns have been colored in cold blue shades, the delicacy of which got enhanced with bright pops of pastel pink and bright white from time to time.
As the show drew to a close, Antonio Marras kept on alternating Fifties and Eighties-inspired figures, often juxtaposing the lines and patterns. American necklines got often followed by puffed-up shoulders and layers of fabrics, creating an appealing contrast with the Antonio Marras spring/summer 2017 collection’s finale pieces.
Here, the Alghero-born designer offered us solely evening-ready pieces, with whimsical patchworks and combination of styles that got highlighted by potpourris of different patterns, animal motifs included, layers of glittery, textured fabrics, and even sophisticated, feminine details, such as gloves. Towards the end, Marras also went particularly strong with the accessories, yet managing to keep everything surprisingly polished and wearable.
Photos courtesy of Vogue