When we think about haute couture, the first thing that usually comes to our mind is a sort of conceptual fashion with exaggerated silhouettes dominating the scene. For her Atelier Versace Couture fall/winter 2016-17 collection, fashion designer Donatella Versace chose to evoke more sensual and out of this world vibes, experimenting with new patterns and designs she yet had to explore.
“This collection is different for me. I put a lot of attention on draping, and less on embroideries and super-sexy,” she explained a few hours before showcasing her runway show in Paris.
And draping is indeed the sinuous motif that links all of the staples to one another, artfully arranging the fabrics in a refined but cutting edge glamour that figuratively reminds us of the ocean. Like Sandro Botticelli’s ‘The Birth of Venus’, all of the models looked like modern versions of the famous Roman Goddess, with shell-like effects getting intertwined with the house’s signature strong and rich color palette.
For her Atelier Versace Couture fall 2016 show, Donatella Versace opted not only for pastel color that surely evoke more sophisticated vibes, but also for vivid reds, blacks and blues that balance the statement pieces with something more mysterious and imposing, at the same time elongating the figures and adding the overall sexier attitude she aimed at infusing the collection with.
Aside from the contrasting color palette, Versace managed to achieve such a goal by wrapping the bodies with refined hems, at times interrupted by either tactic cut-outs or abstract zigzagged necklines that randomly bare the skin.
When not baring the bodies with plunging necklines or slits, Donatella was slimming the silhouettes with her signature pencil trousers (which this time around got revamped with a futuristic metallic fabric) or with shortened versions of the mermaid dress, with the fringed hems caressing the legs and dynamically balancing the more static pieces.
The very first garments featured more conceptual, at times pajama-like takes on fashion. Donatella focused on the coats and jackets, trying to translate them into standout pieces that could make us surprised as soon as the first sensual pieces came out.
Underneath those coats and jackets, one could easily spot what could be regarded as the entire collection’s most naïve and delicately sensual pieces, a.k.a. slip dresses with extremely revealing cuts that were playfully hidden by the oversized and deconstructed hems of the coats.
Although undeniably sultry, the line-up was infused with a playful vibe that offers (aside from a dream array of well-tailored staples) a thoughtful and comprehensive approach on fashion that we hope could be next year’s mantra. Amid draping, bustier gowns, color-blocking patterns and perfectly layered fabrics, Donatella seems to be here just to tell us to play with fashion, and to never be afraid (nor ashamed) of our sensuality.
Photos courtesy of Vogue