Get ready, it is getting pretty freezing in here! The 30-year-old Olivier Rousteing has apparently had a bee in his bonnet to squirt the Balmain fall/winter 2016-2017 RTW collection with pieces of ice and to make his favorite A-list models – Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Karlie Kloss, Alessandra Ambrosio, Joan Smalls (just to name a few) – royally frozen girls.
In terms of silhouettes and tailoring the young talented designer was playing within his element – tons of lace, suede and silk, wisps of tassels, fringes and fur, rigid metallic belts and choker necklaces, tender ruffled motions and intricate beaded handcraft, super minis, strong shoulders and sexy clinginess. What he added to the whole Balmain + Rousteing mixture was those icy shades of sky blue, lilac, blush pink, mint or forest green and, of course, silver grey with its whole royalty and splendor.
A live orchestra was playing throughout the whole Balmain fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection showing, fusing Kate Bush and David Bowie tracks – the full monty raising utmost drama and chagrin within us. The drop-dead gorgeous models were taking turns in somewhat high-falutin’ manners, resembling Frozen Queens, who were undoubtedly living the life of Riley yet having some drama in the inmost recesses of their souls.
It was Kendall, who opened the majestic show with bright blonde hair center parted and in casual waves donning an icy blue furry + suede mini skirt with high-waist which was teamed with tonal striped top tucked under the skirt and a bathrobe style long outerwear. Want some clarification about the legs? No, girls, if you think those were leggings or tights, you are barking up the wrong tree. Those were footwear designs a la Olivier Rousteing, in tender suede, reaching up the thighs and with stiletto heels going higher and higher. But there was also a bevy of rigid shoes in navy blue, oxblood red, desert sand and black.
We were looking with bells on at those skirts or dresses with bell or with closed poppy shapes (call them as you want), while those lacy leggings with tons of ruffles attached to the sides had some chill-out vibes to them albeit feeling somehow ill-fitted to wear in real life. Maxi dresses were Heath Robinson devices, for sure, demonstrating a mishmash of velvet, cascading tassels and intricate beaded embroidery like that fabulous one on Gigi Hadid.
Imagining Balmain without arabesque embroidery is so complicated a task. It is one of the venerable brand’s high signs that touched the Balmain fall 2016 RTW collection as well. A range of pieces took us back to a sumptuous 18th-century Late Baroque hotel embellished with some scintillating Rococo embroidery, while some of the royal tops had been done up with stair baluster style at the neck. And if you just cannot get enough of Balmain, there is still so much to marvel at – for example, those cutout geometrical sheer panels on a handful of tops and the gentle ruffles pouring down in apple-pie order.
Kendall was chosen to both open and close the show with her so hypnotizing visage, while that final high five of Kendall and Rousteing was really zero cool. About half of the Balmain fall/winter 2016-2017 ready-to-wear collection has definitely left many of us dumbfounded apparently thinking “Where on earth could I wear them?” But let us just turn a blind eye and confess that this was all so incredibly beautiful!
Photos courtesy of Vogue