Presented on Saturday in Paris, Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain spring 2017 menswear show hit it big indeed, with It personalities in the fashion world rocking both the catwalk and the front row. As promised, Rousteing also showcased a jaw-dropping selection of the womenswear spring 2017 looks, with models Sasha Luss, Cindy Bruna, Alessandra Ambrosio, Doutzen Kroes and Joséphine Le Tutour strutting down the runway.
“The beauty of the girls has to be matched with the boy. There’s a very definite beauty with the girls. They’re all very different, and they’re from all over the world. It’s very democratic in that way. But there’s a beauty and a confidence and a sexiness about them. And we really wanted to match that with the boys;” Jess Hallett, Balmain’s London-based casting director told Vogue, giving us a glimpse of what designer Rousteign looks for in a runway show.
And if the beauty of the girls had to match the style of the boys, music literally played a huge role in capturing the collection’s main theme too. A live orchestra performed some of Phil Collins’ and Seal’s biggest hits form the Eighties and Nineties.
Although being not purely/solely Eighties/Nineties-inspired in style, both the women’s and menswear line-ups featured characteristic details from those decades, such as sheer and denim appliqués, floor-length airy gowns and cut-outs on the shoulders.
The women’s looks were ultra colorful and never boring, which is something both the Eighties and the Nineties had in common although in different ways (while multi-colored rainbow patterns were a must in the Nineties, the Eighties focused more on multi-colored retro prints and bright color-blocking motifs).
For this reason, the Balmain’s spring 2017 women’s looks feature both vibrant solid-colored ensembles, such as the shocking orange maxi dress, and mini dresses with sheer embellishments that got colored with a more modern, if not even sophisticated version of the tie-dye print. Nineties-inspired skimpy crop-tops got combined with sinuous high-waisted maxi skirts with side slits, the color-blocking orange and blue patterns of which are super covetable.
Like some of the men’s proposals, the womenswear line also focused on warrior-like, street-style outfits: an off-the-shoulder top combined with billowy khaki trousers and a wide belt cinched at the waist perfectly captured this style.
Asymmetrical gowns got paired with zig-zag-patterned kimono cardigans, denoting Olivier Rousteing’s passion and forethought on proportion. Besides matching the women’s and men’s proposals with one another, the designer put a great emphasis on the importance of balancing the figures either with embellishments, such belts, or geometric colored patterns on the fabrics, never missing the chance of giving an almost theatrical dynamicity to the entire collection.
Lastly, aside from a very few total black and total white staples, all of the women’s (and some of the men’s too) proposals featured tassel adornments either on the waists or necklines, which draw our attention to the astounding accessory line he created for spring.
Photos courtesy of Vogue