With an eclectic line-up that seems to be inspired by Persephone, one of Zeus’ many daughters and the lovely wife Hades, the Blumarine spring/summer 2016 collection takes its duty seriously. Like Persephone herself, the Blumarine woman is ready to spend six cold months in the underworld before re-emerging full of life in our beloved sunny weather. Blumarine back to spring leitmotiv runs through every single piece of the collection and enjoys playing with different fabrics, sizes and styles. Somehow, Anna Molinari managed to interpret this theme in more than 30 significantly different ways, making her collection one of the most impressive and multifaceted lines seen so far. In fact, even though some of her creations may not satisfy everyone’s expectations or personal tastes, her ability as a fashion designer is undeniable here.
Blumarine’s celebration of spring and summer begins with a great number of maxi dresses, harmoniously adorned with floral embroidery patterns. Embellishing the hems of each skirt, these flowers seem to belong more to Mother Nature rather than to the dresses per se, thanks to a romantic optical illusion that gives all the outfits an ethereal and sophisticated allure. This ethereal allure finds a good ally with the great amount of sheer fabrics Anna Molinari has skillfully applied to almost every piece, often using them as a modern variation of the vertical striped pattern.
However, see-through fabrics and floral embroideries are the only things all the pieces have in common. In fact, Molinari’s talent to sift through her back to spring leitmotiv goes beyond the mere usage of different fabrics, embracing different fashion styles and cultures. While the first part of the collection has in hippie influences, the second part travels forwards in time to the early Eighties, bringing puff sleeve blouses and structured shoulder pad dresses, at the same time, wide-leg pants, along with oversized shirts and trench coats that give a sophisticated unisex appeal to the line-up.
Shortly after, we find ourselves thrown into the mid-Eighties and early Nineties thanks to some short wrap-around skirts, sleek fabrics and black crop tops, which give the collection a mystic sensual allure that may be linked to Persephone’s love for Hades. The third and last part of the show, which may be seen as soulfully futuristic, gives us some good examples of what fashion might be in a not so distant future: practical, ecological and architecturally inspired by nature.
Last but not least, it is also extremely interesting to see how Molinari has been inspired by the Asian world, with its Zen philosophy and martial art tradition. In fact, while some outfits seem to celebrate Japanese cherry blossom gardens, others look like futuristic versions of kimonos. Whether you see the Blumarine spring 2016 collection as too chaotic or not, Anna Molinari’s ability to dress up Persephone is tangible, and will surely inspire future fashion designers.
Photos courtesy of Vogue