Ultra-polished and a perfect bond between the Nineties and a revisited Victorian-inspired style, the new Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2017 collection celebrates not only femininity and urbanity, but also creative director Tomas Maier’s 15 brilliant years at the helm of the Italian fashion house, as well as the brand’s 50-year anniversary in the industry.
Held at the fascinating and spectacular Accademia di Brera in Milan, the historical hallways of which surely left those who were attending the show speechless, the Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2017 runway show was imposing indeed, with both the men’s and the women’s lineups alternating each other onstage.
“Bottega Veneta is about the creative work of the hand. To celebrate my 15th anniversary, and the 50th of the house, I am happy to stage our show at the Accademia, and to do so in the presence of all the artisans and people who have supported us,” explained Maier backstage, looking proud and emotional at the same time.
Being at the helm of one of Italy’s leading mansions since 2001 is no small feat for sure, and Maier’s spring/summer collection lived up to the high standards Bottega Veneta is synonymous with.
With a color palette that was predominantly dark-toned, aside from a few pastel colors, the pieces felt slightly hedged in a revisited Victorian, urban style, yet with Maier perfectly managing to keep everything modern thanks to characteristic well-tailored escamotages that we can already predict will be all the rage from March on up until the end of summer 2017.
Corset belts, midi skirts and cropped culottes in denim, sleek leather trench coats and military/equestrian-inspired proposals were, in fact, fearlessly combined by Maier with risqué see-through garments, or even more modest Victorian-inspired ones, inevitably adding a sort of grunge, haute couture-esque punk appeal to the entire collection.
As for the corset belts, which have so far been featured in almost every Milan Fashion Week runway show, Maier made them both feminine and high fashion, as well as highly functional when wrapped around the figures for an instant slimming and elongating effect.
In creating such statement pieces, Maier also managed to balance them with something for everyday, such as sheer shirts, turtleneck sweatshirts and urban-chic, cropped jodhpur pants. Tomas Maier’s knack for fabric manipulation also helped the leather goods look equally wearable and high fashion, while also being softened by few, yet very distinctive pops of bright pink and orange.
Towards its finale, the Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2017 runway show treated us to evening-ready proposals too, translated by Maier to sophisticated of-other-times long frocks, colored either in creamy shades, or richly textured burgundy and rusty orange. Maier offered also new takes on mannish-inspired dressing by creating conceptual, minimalistic clean-cut suits for women that instantly transported the collection to a brand new level.
Photos courtesy of Vogue