Continuing on with his deconstructed, undone tone from Calvin Klein‘s especially successful spring 2016 collection, creative director Francisco Costa created another smart ready-to-wear collection for fall/winter 2016-2017. The line walked the runway for New York Fashion Week, and kept cool in shades of black, white, and purple. The collection began with a sleek pantsuit, with trousers featuring hanging strips, much like several pairs from last season’s showing. This, paired with a pristinely tailored jacket over a loose-fitting silk tank top made for juxtaposition between officewear and sleepwear. Just as in the spring, this was a common runway trend this season, but no attempt has been quite so successful as Calvin Klein’s showing.
Costa didn’t dwell on the masculinity of the first tailored suit, and was soon able to transition into dresses, many of which were tea-length. But when the hemline deviated from that norm, it was drastic. For instance, a lovely large-scaled plaid jacket with a fur collar was atop a skirt of the same fabric, but to one side there was no telling where it ended; the dramatically high slit simply disappeared into the undershirt, which was a fluid black satin top in like-fashion as that of a classic silk robe.
Fur was actually quite the interesting factor in the Calvin Klein fall 2016 RTW line, as it wasn’t of any expected animal; Lynx was used in some instances, and skunk in others. So this is likely a theme unique to this season’s show. Without knowing the animals, you might just look over the collection and the notes of sophistication fur brings to the table, but once you recognize some as skunk, it does add a level of whimsy.
This collection, with all of its sexiness conveyed in a quirkily commercial way, is not for women looking for a simple wardrobe update. These are looks that women have to wear with intent, because anything less would either result in a poorly portrayed look for the day or would commit a disservice to the clothes – now, neither one of those is ideal, so please wear responsibly!
When fashion week rolls around, you can always look forward to Costa’s line to be extremely wearable and created with a set woman in mind. As with the Calvin Klein fall 2016 collection, he was able to take the slightly eccentric concept of nightwear as daywear, and created a line that might not even be questioned as such. Costa is taking the brand in a perpetual forward motion, which is a welcome change for the brand, especially if collections such as this are the product.
Margot Robbie and Zoë Kravitz took in the runway showing from the front row, next to the likes of Abbey Lee Kershaw, Adwoa Aboah, and Kendall Jenner, who were all models featured in the Calvin Klein spring 2016 ad campaign. Costa is clearly doing something right with his work if he has fashionable ladies like these coming back for more.
Photos courtesy of Vogue