Transitional and deconstructed – that’s how we could describe the newest Calvin Klein resort 2017 collection, designed by the label’s studio team in the wake of fashion designer Francisco Costa’s departure. The studio team (maybe purposely) kept everything light and ‘simple’, letting the fashion house’s signature lines and staples become the sole protagonists, which got revisited and modernized through architectural cuts. Combined with lightweight materials and a soft color palette, the latter made everything look even more minimalistic and polished.
To help us better understand the spirit of this resort 2017 collection, Calvin Klein’s headquarters released a press note, stating that this is “a collection that reinterprets essential references inherent to the brand’s DNA, deconstructing and modernizing iconic staples for today. Drawing from the brand’s roots in tailoring, outerwear, workwear and slip dressing, the Pre-Spring 2017 collection embodies a light, youthful and sensual spirit.”
The concept behind the modernization of old Calvin Klein staples might also be seen as a cathartic way of ‘mourning’ Francisco Costa’s departure, as the womenwear designer has been publicly praised since his very first collection at Calvin Klein back in 2003 (Calvin Klein’s menswear designer, Italo Zucchelli stepped down from the fashion house too). This collection comes out after the release of the news about the company’s reacquisition of its notorious underwear and jeans lines. Many are already speculating about the pieces being so ‘light’ because of the fashion house’s plans to hit it big not only with the new creative directors (Raf Simons is said to be the best candidate as the brand’s womenswear designer), but also with the upcoming seasonal collections.
The in-house design team embraced the transitional mid-season month with pieces that are very essential to our wardrobe, yet are deconstructed and made less static. From belted trench coats to boxy jackets, from knee-length jackets with wide shoulders to sleeveless appliquéd airy frocks, everything got filtered through an edgy, minimalistic-chic lens, which makes the proposals fall somewhere in-between underground, street-style and haute couture fashion.
Calvin Klein’s signature A-line skirts are to be found in the line-up too, yet embellished with a glam-rock zip on the front that adds a sense of movement to most of the outfits, in contrast to the blush colors. Floral printed dresses got revamped with hand-embroidered details, which are one of the line-up’s most recurring motifs (should we extrapolate a metaphorical meaning behind such a motif?).
On the other hand, heavily layered are the polka-dotted items, which got completed with puffed-up cropped jackets and flared, schoolgirl skirts. Ankle-high boots and brogue flats complete the looks, adding the most fashionable touch to the entire collection.
Photos courtesy of Vogue