Francisco Costa, Women’s Creative Director of Calvin Klein, created a new perspective on the house’s iconic slip dress. The designer, for the most part, stuck to his usual aesthetic of muted colors, as he delved into the concept of The Morning After for the Calvin Klein spring/summer 2016 collection. Costa took the basic form of the slip dress, but shook things up in the way they were presented on the runway. He played around with deconstruction, showing what he felt of a woman, the morning after a liaison with her lover’s tailored and too large clothing over the previous night’s lingerie. Even the idea of a well-tailored jacket was not free from the deconstruction, however, and the result was a fresh perspective for the house’s well-known apparel. With his past work, Francisco Costa focused on maintaining an orderly grasp on the line, so it was nice to see him breakaway and explore fashion.
Hanging straps, ripped and unraveled hems, sliced sleeves, and loose-hanging, soft cups showed Costa embracing a new perspective of disarray, highly working in the favor of the house. Many of this line’s garments seemed to mimic sleepwear, with soft satins playing into the orderly chaos. Then there was a disruption in the system of the designer’s process. There was a break in the trend when a digital flower print first stepped onto the runway on a jumpsuit, partially hidden underneath a large, black deconstructed trench.
This usage of fabric led to the appearance of a simple, beautifully hanging dress adorned with brass chains. This seems to break away from the deconstructed nature of the other garments in the collection, but that doesn’t stop the piece from being beautiful. A second dress, shown closely after the first, shared the same fabric, but seemed more embedded in the collection, by its use of hanging straps and loose fit. Both pieces are absolutely gorgeous, and the pattern, although out of character for Costa, really works in the collection.
The Calvin Klein spring 2016 line continued with its tattered and worn clothes, but the beautiful brass chain was used more and more as the show progressed. It was placed in ways on each garment that mirrored the loose-cup lines that other pieces showed earlier in the collection, and cascaded around each model down to the hemlines.
The show didn’t end with a bang, but rather died down into a quiet finale; the show was finished as simply as it had started. Costa’s girl is one that doesn’t have a need for extravagant gowns or intricate eveningwear, as his muse is going through her morning after a night of passion.
The subtle care placed in remembering the inspiration is something that makes this such a beautiful ending to Costa’s unique show. It leaves the audience with a quiet breath, much as one would have on a beautiful morning, following a night of romance. If this level of care and inspiration is the future of the Calvin Klein brand, then we can only wait to see what will come next.
Photos courtesy of Vogue