Dior is planning a series of events to commemorate the label’s 70th anniversary, but before this all goes underway, there are still exciting new things happening on the designing front. Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted as creative director of Dior for the fashion house’s spring 2017 collection, and since that was received successfully her next collection has been highly anticipated. The Dior pre-fall 2017 collection has now been released, so the wait is over; the result is a lineup with a lot of attitude, created with the new generation of women in mind.
Chiuri expressed her inspirations for the new garments, by citing her move from Rome to Paris. She wanted to be sure and capture the character of the city, which she describes as being “a magnet for bohemians,” a sentiment quoted from “A Moveable Feast” by Ernest Hemingway from the 1920s.
Chiuri emphasized that she is excited about where she and the brand are in the present, but also that she’s looking forward to what will come from the brand in the future.
The designer went on to explain her fashion choices for the new pre-season line, in an interview with WWD. “Christian Dior is a Parisian brand, so you have to feel this attitude that there is in the city. You can dress like you want, you can express how you feel. I feel this atmosphere of freedom in the city.”
Bohemia is often related to the idea of freedom, and this season it was apparent that Chiuri felt free to explore and play around with the style by also referencing that Hemingway era in the looks. She took modern bohemian trends and tied them with classic ’20s silhouettes and features in her clothing and accessory options. But she also visited other eras. The 1950s was another popular style for the designer in this collection.
“I like the heritage element, but at the same time I want to use it in a contemporary way, because in the end fashion speaks about now, and out style of life is completely different,” Chiuri explained to WWD. “Women in the ’50s didn’t work. It’s a completely different story.”
The designer is using this same idea of heritage to find a way to integrate into the brand while moving it forward as well. For the latter, Chiuri has opted to move Dior in a younger direction by designing for the up-and-coming generation. She expanded on this further in her interview.
“I want to really understand this brand. I want to know the heritage very well. At the same time, I want to express myself in a very easy way, because I don’t think that this heritage has to be something that is untouchable. You have to translate this heritage in a language that probably is more about now, because I want to speak, for this brand, to a new generation of women.”
There were a lot of different themes at work for the Dior pre-fall 2017 lineup – that much is easy to see. But the truly impressive thing about it is that no one thing overshadowed the others, and it also didn’t read as too busy.
The silhouettes were young with mature elements, so she didn’t fall too far one way or the other.
She brought this lineup home by moving beyond Parisian borders, focusing on the idea of the French capital as being a melting pot. She mixed prints amid garments in the Christian Dior pre-fall 2017 collection to keep things interesting yet fluid, with herringbone and houndstooth playing alongside fun mosaics. She played with mixing fabrics, patterns, and overall styles in order to satisfy the modern generation’s lean toward eclectic fashion choices.
There was leather and velvet, baby-doll dresses and biker jackets – these are only two pairings of fashion opposites that walked side by side for her collection. Despite the younger goal, Chiuri also didn’t stray away from luxury pieces, showing a series of airy gowns and fabrics for higher end events.
Capes were a dramatic outerwear staple in the collection, and they were created in many iterations; most notably, one piece was created in the fashion house’s signature houndstooth. Accessorizing this look, as well as many others, was a jockey hat, complete with strap, which dolled up the collection and took it to a new level.
We have been seeing a great many extraordinary collections for the pre-fall 2017 season, and even with that, this one seems to be vying for the top spot. There are so many great looks in so many different styles and meanings that popped up from Chiuri, so looking through the Christian Dior pre-fall 2017 collection is an organized chaos.
This was another fabulous Dior showing that has us wanting more from the new creative director, so we can’t wait to see what comes from the 70th anniversary festivities, as well as the upcoming fashion month!
Photos courtesy of Vogue