For his fall/winter 2016 collection at London Fashion Week, Christopher Kane looked to an interesting source of inspiration. Artist Abraham Cruzvillegas put together the set for the show, which was of scaffolding, wood, and soil.
“I’ve been obsessed with hoarders,” he told WWD after his show. The garments in the line certainly gave off that vibe, from the continuous DIY characterized pieces and the innovative flower patterns, which were actually inspired by the decaying process of flowers. You can see the floral prints at the beginning of the line, which appear to be photographs of live, colorful roses.
By the end of the collection, Kane is giving the audience flower-printed black lace, but in the middle is where the decaying process can be viewed. The vibrant print grows green and brown, muddied, and the flowers are beginning to wilt. By the time you get to the black lace at the end the entire process has been laid out from the roses’ prime to their death.
The headwear in the Christopher Kane fall 2016 collection certainly caused for one to pause and contemplate the decision. Stiff plastic adorned many of the models’ heads to accompany their looks, worn like kerchiefs. They didn’t seem to add much to the overall theme of the collection, and without context appear to have no meaning in correspondence with the collection. However, the collection is able to dig a little deeper with its correlation to the Kanes’ mother, who passed away earlier last year.
“Our mum used to embarrass us when she picked us up from school wearing one of those plastic rain hats,” said Kane’s sister Tammy. With this addition, the headwear makes sense as an addition, but is only one of many inspiration aspects to accompany it within the line. The family grew up in the ’90s outside of Glasgow, which is always a contributing factor to Kane’s work, and of course there was the hoarders theme throughout. After his show, Kane briefed present journalists about hoarders from an outside perspective as somebody who lives with constant psychological barriers, and even romanticizes the term to a degree.
“She doesn’t know how to get out. She’s stuck. Things are so normal these days, so why not think out of the box?” he said.
And his designs generally follow this trend, of producing garments that are outside the box among other designers. This is due in large to his ability to draw from various sources of inspiration without overwhelming his line; he is able to combine different things to come out with one cohesive line.
Even though the clothes had a large inspiration of hoarders, which brings to mind an older woman living with a large collection of various items, Kane kept things classy, and even threw in pieces like mink coats and dresses like a deep red tea-length with an interesting neckline that reminds of Alexander McQueen’s past work. You can form a lovely wardrobe from the pieces in the Christopher Kane fall 2016 collection alone, so don’t let the inspiration sources throw you for too much of a loop as you take in the pieces individually.
Photos courtesy of Vogue