“Yes, these frills. I did them in my first show in 2006, remember?” That’s one of the most remarkable and self-explanatory declarations a fashion designer has ever said about his/her collection. Heralded as one of the most talented emerging fashion designers since his very first debut in 2006, Christopher Kane has never been afraid to look backwards, looking for inspirations among his many past line-ups. For the Christopher Kane pre-fall 2016 collection, the designer not only included some of his 2006 collection’s main motifs, but also kept his renowned sporty-chic style, which, for the autumnal transitional season, was inspired by an old gothic and futuristic book.
Those who are familiar with the British designer’s creations will be also very likely overwhelmed with another flashback, which could trace back to 2011, when the “Princess Margaret on acid” hit the SS runways. Those same neon patterns got translated to a kind of ‘Mary Shelley on acid’ version, as the Frankenstein leitmotif is a strong one within the entire Kane pre-fall 2016 collection.
Starting off as sporty-chic, the line-up slowly evolves into something slightly different, yet still part of the same book, adding different kind of literary inspirations, such as Gothicism and Sci-Fiction. While the gothic style covers the second part of the collection, the sci-fi theme is vivid within its third range of looks, and also splits into two different directions: on the one hand we have the more playful and fresh look, which features all the things our protagonist would wear during a futuristic quest, while on the other we have what she would wear on any sophisticated futuristic event. It seems like the collection works as a sort of fashion Bildungsroman, and follows the story and adventures of a young and chic urban-warrior protagonist.
As for the opening looks, Christopher Kane likes to mix-and-match different patterns, creating color-blocking motifs that accentuate the silhouettes. Lace patterns, wrapped dresses and side slits show unconventional femininity, while Nehru collars and roomy ankle pants, adorned with abstract motifs, seem to be made for all those women, who are not afraid to show off their unique personality. The same abstract stripes get quickly combined with some floral embroideries, which ultimately become the sole adornment in many macabre-inspired pieces. The collection being as eclectic as Christopher Kane himself is, it is no surprise it jumps from well-tailored cashmere coats to trendy athleisure sweatshirts, or even from oversized t-shirt dresses to long and sophisticated evening frocks.
When it comes the sci-fi inspired looks, the blue and yellow color palette creates additional space for metallic grey and neon green, fully embracing some of this year’s main color trends. This part also explores different artistic techniques, such as those used by the graffitists, proving once again Kane wants us to feel like in an urban-dystopian setting.
Eventually, the Christopher Kane pre-fall 2016 collection takes a more dressed-up direction, including those famous “frills” Kane was talking about backstage. Here our sci-fi heroin chooses delicate gray cashmere sweaters as well as wool coats and total black mannish suits, adorned with feminine floral appliqués and crystals, which also prove that Kane’s book luckily has a happy ending.
As for the accessories used to spice up the looks, Kane focuses on zips, belts and chockers, balancing the figure and making it look even more slender. Intricate silvery bracelets and long dangling earrings literally find their way to shine too, promising to be the most sold-out items when, later this year, Kane will finally launch his e-commerce website.
Photos courtesy of Vogue