Stuart Vevers sends us back to school with the juvenile, yet sophisticated, Coach fall/Winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection, unveiled a few hours ago at New York Fashion Week. Bohemian at heart, Vevers has been rejuvenating Coach since his appointment as the label’s creative director in 2014, quickly treating us to some already must-have accessories and timeless looks.
Besides experimenting with boho-chic looks, Vevers enjoys adding cinematographic references to his collection, following the same path many of his fellow colleagues often undertake, namely that of merging fashion with other forms of art. For this particular collection he drew inspiration from Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver, Rob Lowe in Youngblood, and even Velma Dinkley in Scooby-Doo. Coach’s lineup is a mixture of noir elements, such as those spotted in Scorsese’s Taxi Driver, sportive elements like the ones seen in Youngblood, and even more cheerful and carefree aspects that are intrinsically characteristic of Scooby-Doo’s main protagonists.
Like Dean Youngblood (starring Rob Lowe) quickly learns that his athletic ability is not the only ability he needs to be successful in his hockey league, Vevers knows that his tailoring skills are not enough when it comes to ready-to-wear, as he needs to intertwine them with his creativity and attention to details. We could specifically see that in the Iris (Jodie Forster’s character in Taxi Driver) and Velma-inspired proposals, which include extremely well-tailored butterfly-collar dresses adorned with different patterns, such as patchwork and paisley (not for nothing Vevers usually likes to remain true to his main passion, namely utilizing retro-inspired patterns).
To enhance the whole Taxi Driver-inspired mysterious allure, Vevers had fun spicing up the leather jackets, waistcoats and A-line skirts with studded motifs, balancing their inevitable ruggedness with fur and plaid materials. This overall roughness includes an intriguing sharpness in the lines and cuts the pieces feature, the latter of which make a good contrast with the collection’s colorful hues and retro-inspired patterns. Besides the aforementioned paisley dresses, the Coach FW 2016-17 rtw collection features striped and geometrical patterns too, which help link Taxi Driver’s noir allure with Scooby-Doo’s solid-colored patterns and Youngbood’s nostalgic college-like attire options.
As soon as the first models walked down the runway, everybody knew Vevers’ varsity jackets were destined to become the collection’s most talked-about pieces, as they got skillfully combined with pure boho-chic frocks, cowgirl-like boots and retro mini luggage handbags. The cowgirl motif is another recurring theme in Vevers’ latest collection, as brown-toned leather jackets, skirts and, of course, boots often make their appearance within the lineup.
Like most of the recent collections unveiled at NYFW, Vevers’ Coach FW 2016-17 RTW line-up is another ‘love it or hate it’ kind of collection, which however undeniably proves Vevers’ terrific artisanal skills.
Photos courtesy of Vogue