Ennio Capasa started Costume National in 1986, after a brief period of time spent in Japan, where he worked for Yamamoto. His fascination for Asia has always played a strong influence on his life, as seen in many of his collections, and it surely played an important role while he was designing his Costume National spring/summer 2016 collection as well. This time around, the designer looked to the cinematic world for inspiration, specifically the lighting in the movies, which has resulted into a modest and monochromatic collection that centers around curious shapes, cuts and subtle masculine notes merged with feminine elegance. The overall outcome is a super-versatile and wearable line-up of chameleonic clothing pieces that you can easily take from day to night.
The collection’s primary color is navy blue, seen both in its matte and iridescent versions, but there are also other very few pops of brights (namely fire red and optical white) that suddenly light up the entire mood on the runway. All those blues made the catwalk look almost mystical, while the color’s usage in the clothing pieces gave every single design a sensual and sophisticated allure. The entire Costume National spring 2016 collection is one of the most sensual lines we have seen so far and seems to be specifically targeting the self-confident and enigmatic audience.
Capasa’s women have strong personalities this spring, and the talented Italian designer knows how to enhance their beauty. He soon proves it within his first 10 outfits showcased, all in navy blue, which alternate mini dresses, flounce skirts and wide leg trousers combined with plunging neckline blouses.
This collection’s first part ends with an uber-feminine A-line dress, the see-through sleeves of which perfectly counterbalance its optical white belt. The same belt also plays an important role in the second part of the line-up, wherein we are treated to ethereal all-white outfits. The most interesting piece of this range of looks is an A-line maxi dress with cut-out shoulders and wide long sleeves, the plunging neckline of which and the high waist give the collection an ephemeral boho chic attitude.
Right after this series of the looks, the collection goes dynamic and brigns some fantasies and breezy prints to the scene. This part also reminds us of Capasa’s passion for Asia, which he applied to some elegant suits and mini dresses, as well as for an intriguing short-sleeve long cardigan that looks like an extremely modern version of a kimono. Furthermore, leaf prints and geometric shapes almost resemble a peaceful Zen garden. The upcoming sheer blouse, high waist shorts and a fire red suit have some similarities with the brand’s SS 2016 menswear collection, exploring the glam rock theme, but in a more urban chic way.
The finale of the show brings probably the most elegant side of the Costume National spring 2016 collection through long figure-enhancing dresses and skirts with side slits. The closing looks all play with contrasts, combining blue and white shades in the hemlines, but also featuring either straps or belts. The most interesting piece is probably the short dress with asymmetrical shoulder straps and skirt, which makes the collection even more appealing with the touch of modernity it comes embedded with.
Photos courtesy of Vogue