Milan-based Damir Doma moved his shows to Milan Fashion Week less than a year ago, and has so far always managed to fill the worldwide catwalks with his uncannily minimalistic aesthetics and clear silhouettes. For his fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection, Croatian-born Damir Doma remained true to his famous style, although deconstructing most of his pieces in order to further achieve one of his New Year’s resolutions as a fashion designer: innovating the brand and establishing a closer link between the label itself and its customers.
Damir Doma has been researching and investing in new materials and strategies since the last months of 2015, and we could rightly state that this latest collection of his definitely is a starting point from which customers can have a glimpse of what the label is going to be all about (namely: quality and creativeness). The Damir Doma fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection is made of what could be regarded as a terrifically well-tailored ensemble of proportions and textiles, as well as an unexpected juxtaposition of both rough and defined figures. When it comes to Damir Doma, anything is to be taken for granted, as he always puts so much energy and dedication into creating one-of-a-kind items that may combine artistic, architectural and subculture references all in one piece of clothing.
Doma, who grew up in his mom’s atelier, studied in Berlin and worked for Raf Simons before launching his eponymous label, proved this time to be able to create a well-served array of clothing pieces that could be linked to all his milestones, starting from Berlin’s architectural references and ending up with Simons’ open-minded kind of style. Simons surely helped Doma broaden his points of views on fashion, which evidently helped in injecting relaxed heroin-chic lines and polished, yet elaborated cuts to this FW 2016-17 rtw lineup.
Romantic, poetic and melancholic, the Damir Doma fall/winter 2016-17 collection almost solely focuses on grays, whites and blacks, with only a very few dark-toned greens and patterns completing the looks. The Northern-European references are strong in this one, as the lineup features items that anyone wouldn’t be surprise to spot down the streets of London or Berlin.
With a style that could be defined as casual meets heroin-chic, Doma particularly enjoyed designing oversized sweaters, coats, gowns and trousers as well, cutting the vertical and sinuous lines with multiple splits. Inside-out combinations, slip dresses and shell shirts clearly remind us of the Nineties, even when matched with super roomy trousers. The fluidity of the garments is then interrupted by the white deconstructed cropped jackets, as well as the loose cut-outs and super-thin fringes, which enhance Damir Doma’s heroin-chic references even more.
To make sure each one of the looks turned out to be visibly proportionate, he gave most of his gowns asymmetrical cuts and spiced up his dresses with extra layers of fabric, adding a slight form of dynamicity to the entire lineup. Aside from belts and fringes, Doma did as usual forgo any kind of further embellishments, preferring his famed pure form over next fall’s major decorative trends.
Photos courtesy of Vogue