The London Fashion Week spring 2017 has just begun and it is already blowing us away with its shows and collections. David Koma also just surprised us with the voluminous David Koma spring/summer 2017 collection that could be regarded as a breaking point for the designer’s future, indeed.
Georgian designer David Koma, who is often described as “synonymous with the ultra body contouring silhouette”, got inspired by the historical background of the city, where he studied Fine Arts when he was only a teenager: Saint Petersburg.
Koma, who has so far (almost) always and solely drawn inspiration from the feminine form and silhouettes for his collections, has combined his sculptural statement dresses with Saint Petersburg’s sumptuous court frocks, creating something that could be linked either to street style or haute couture depending on one’s point of view.
“I’ve never really done references. Not going back to historical costume. But this time I looked at Russian court dress form the early 20th century. I’m from St. Petersburg, after all,” he declared backstage.
The David Koma spring/summer 2017 line-up takes Koma’s signature rigid figures and evolves them into something more voluminous and airy, with the notorious Russian court style dress being at the core of the entire collection. Although modernized and captured through the 29-year-old designer’s sensual lens, the collection is irremediably sultry, with bare shoulders sensually balancing the billowy volumes and miniskirts revitalizing the more opulent, Russian-inspired patterns.
Beauty lies, in fact, in the detailing, and Koma specifically focused on the shiniest details to enhance women’s figures. Although the collection’s silhouettes are mainly vertical, with even drop-waist cuts reinforcing the elongating pattern, cascades of Swarovski crystals and sheer, laced patterns harmonize them, enhancing the forms and pleasantly balancing the bodies. Fabergé’ embellishments, of course, have their time to shine throughout the line-up too, strengthening the Saint Petersburg-inspired theme even more.
Intricately embroidered, the Russian court style gown has been redesigned by Koma with a strong accent for the fanciful modern times, with a slightly Nineties-infused pattern catapulting us back to one of the fashion industry’s most playful eras. When not focusing on the Fabergé and Swarovski adornments, Koma captured the Russian court style through a more minimalistic lens, as if he were a modern time Russian constructivist artist.
As much as constructivism favored a more practical art, Koma at times favors plain, minimalistic lines as a way to embellish most of his slip dresses and mini frocks, interrupting the figures with diagonal patterns of soft, earth-toned colors. Although featuring almost only black and white hues, the David Koma spring/summer 2017 collection gets also spiced up with yellow, lime and beige shades, which surely help renovate his signature style and color palette.
Minimalistic yet opulent, David Koma proved his capability of evolving his creations into something more philosophically intricate, and we cannot wait to see what his collections will progress into from now on.
Photos courtesy of Vogue