Delpozo‘s ready-to-wear showing for fall/winter 2016 at New York Fashion Week proved to be quite the spectacle. The overall display was actually quite lovely, with bright colors and romantic floral elements peeking through at every turn. The structure contradicted the direction of the collection’s color, although the juxtaposition between naturality and architecture was striking. As the clothes walked the runway, they were truly remarkable pieces of artwork to be seen, although the overall wearability of this ready-to-wear collection is a bit questionable.
Creative director Josep Font turned to “Metropolis,” a 1927 sci-fi silent film by expressionist Fritz Lang, for inspiration. The film is set in an urban, dystopian future, where industrialization and Art-Deco styles can be noted, and were translated into the collection’s architecture. Despite this dark theme, the line maintained a level of ethereality, which is the gold standard for the Madrid-based label. The darker connotations of the film were executed with subtle precision, so as to give a nod to the inspiration without pulling the clothes into a darker time as well. Cracked metallics and chromed fabrics made for the industrial theme of the film, and more specifically, Maschinenmensch (Machine-human, in English), a robot and key component in the film.
The way the clothes were presented in this context can only be described as doll-like. The majority of the clothes were oversized to begin with, so adding in the stiffness of the structure and the heavily contrasted colors, the models began to look more and more like dolls. Some wore long evening gloves to finish off their looks, while one model was even adorned with flowers lining her arms. This almost cartoonish aspect made the subtle machinery theme quite a bit more interesting when seen in comparison.
The oversized nature and exaggerated architecture do indeed lead to some thoughts of cartoons, but when viewing the Delpozo fall 2016 RTW collection as a whole, a more accurate description would be magical or fantastical. That is where another of Font’s inspiration sources comes more deeply into play. He looked to surrealist digital artist Daria Petrilli, and her work, which showed Victorian women within nature. With all of the inspirations working together, the house showed its knack for craftsmanship, and really focused on nearly defying gravity with its large-scale contours.
This made for some stunning looks, such as a printed mod mini dress with a metallic belt detail, and a gold skirt with flower details the same color as the pale blue chiffon shirt it was paired with. These two looks were some of the most toned down looks in the collection, which is what made them stand out in the end.
The Delpozo fall 2016 collection also resulted in some interesting details, like cutout shoulders with sleeves that resembled water wings. Above all, the collection never lost that sense of magical wonder. The show itself was a sight to be seen, and the looks will likely be scooped up by devoted Delpozo supporters. Unfortunately, the looks found in this collection were only ready-to-wear for those whose lives call for such over-the-top garments, but seeing the pieces is up to par with visiting a museum to those of us who couldn’t put purpose to the garments presented.
Photos courtesy of Vogue