Art is once again at the core of Josep Font’s seasonal collection, who for his Delpozo fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear show brought artists József Rippl-Rónai’s and Max Bill’s creativity on stage. Showcased during this extremely artistic New York Fashion Week, which saw many other designers focus on art for their fall 2017 collections (such as Joseph Altuzarra and Stacey Bendet, just to name a few), Delpozo’s line-up was carefully constructed according to József Rippl-Rónai’s and Max Bill’s most notorious works, which gave the overall collection bright touches and architecturally intricate shapes.
As for the former, the collection’s color palette might be decisively surprising for those who love Font’s approach to seasonal collections, who often favors conventionally cheerful greens and fuchsias over the Delpozo fall 2017 collection’s mulberry wine, navy blue and amber. Although being richly textured, this collection’s hues somehow looked darker in their moods, and that is probably due to the dual visions Josep Font assembled together after immersing himself into Rippl-Rónai’s and Max Bill’s works.
From Hungarian painter József Rippl-Rónai’s paintings, Josep Font extrapolated a sense of ethereal and other-worldly beauty that were transposed to fashion through to soft, yet vivid colors, as well as Post-Impressionist-inspired renewed aesthetics and quite abstract tendencies. From Swiss architect and designer Max Bill’s creations, on the other hand, Josep Font caught a sense of pragmatic and conceptually complex minimalism that was particularly present not only in the range of clothes, but also in the accessories.
One specific item perfectly exemplified Max Bill’s influence upon Josep Font, and it was the giant “Moon” bag inspired by Max’s iconic Möbius sculptures. Rounded and circular, it is probably the it-item that perfectly embodied the collection and Font’s creative stream of consciousness best of all.
As for the other main patterns, both Max Bill’s and József Rippl-Rónai’s legacies played important, yet contrasting roles throughout the collection, proving that both Rónai’s post-impressionist style, and Bill’s lust for a harmonious minimalism were equally valuable in his personal quest for perfection. For these reasons, the Delpozo fall/winter 2017-18 rtw collection featured polar opposite patterns, such as floral prints and strictly geometrical lines, with the latter seen both in the garments’ figures, and the designs.
The collection was a ready-to-wear meets haute couture sort of line-up, with wearable staples such as turtleneck sweaters and palazzo pants being paired with exaggeratedly structured coats and geometrical cuts. The latter were to be found in everything, from the shirts to the trousers, and unsurprisingly became the Internet’s most talked-about staples as soon as the first images of the show were released.
Delpozo’s visions for the next autumnal season were those of a fashion house that wants to build a steady bridge between ready-to-wear and haute couture, often blurring the lines between the two. Josep Font, who is a master at “blurring” and lessening such lines, just showed to the world what he is capable of, paving the way for soon being dubbed as one of the ultimate, all-time unforgettable couturiers.
Photos courtesy of Vogue