Midnight blue definitely was Costume National’s warmest color yesterday, and so is it for the Diesel Black Gold fall/winter 2016-2017 collection, in case of which blue is less dark but equally appealing. Presented for the second time at Milano Fashion Week a few hours ago (it used to rock the NYFW catwalks), both the Diesel Black Gold ready-to-wear collection and its location perfectly embodied the label’s suburban spirit, which enhanced its underground accents when Norwegian creative director Andreas Melbostad took over the label’s creative direction.
At the helm of Diesel Black Gold since 2012, Melbostad originally solely designed the womenswear collections, but got quickly promoted as overall creative director in 2013. His responsibilities include overseeing Diesel Black Gold’s general image as well, letting it expand its horizons. Such a sea change, namely that of moving Diesel Black Gold’s fashion show from New York to Milan, might just be the first step in creating a new, radical and iconic vision for the label, as Melbostad mentioned it when he was appointed as creative director that he had huge plans for Diesel Black Gold in the near future.
Compared to the spring 2016 collection, this lineup is less variegated in terms of not only colors but prints too, as it avoided any kind of patterns except for a very few rhomboidal and ton-sur-ton floral embroideries. Overall, the collection lacks bright colors, mainly focusing on black and blue. Studs, sequins, belts and mini clutches are not missing here, as they help Diesel Black Gold keep its urban style alive, even when the collection showcases mostly conventionally sophisticated hues.
While most of the fashion weeks’ lineups focused on relaxed lines, Melbostad swims against the tide, emphasizing hourglass silhouettes and the necks. That doesn’t mean he didn’t enjoy playing with oversized ‘spongy’ A-line skirts and layered frocks, which may be not regarded as the collection’s key pieces but will surely appeal to most of Diesel customers.
Slightly futuristic, the Diesel Black Gold fall 2016 collection’s most interesting pieces are the tight-fitting short-sleeved t-shirts with turtlenecks and rounded shoulders, which look like a hybrid between a windbreaker and an elegant blouse. Most of them feature a metallic zip too, meaning that there’s more space for them to be played with and layered. Roomy trousers with frilled waists and tight hems are a sort of hybrid between cargo and harem pants, although those are definitely more refined and sophisticated.
A subtle futurism meets the Nineties motif comes along with the slouchy laced pants as well as with the slip dresses. Then, instead of enhancing the figures through sinuous lines, Melbostad enjoyed exposing much skin, drastically cutting the skirts over-the-knees. It is quite interesting, given the fact that only a few designers have so far included more than two miniskirts to their FW collections. Is it Melbostad’s way to tell us Diesel Black Gold is about to set the rules for a new, unconventional fashion movement? We’ll see!
Photos courtesy of Vogue, NowFashion