Every time Paris Haute Couture Week draws to a close, it so happens that the foretaste of high fashion glorification of ours does not come to a standstill in any way. And that means, really as we know it for sure, that a Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda show is yet to come and jeopardize our perception of reality to disappear without any trace. The Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda spring 2016 collection brought to light at La Scala opera house, Milan this year as well through as-always dizzy and well-heeled show, reached its completion on January 31, Sunday. And we are already catching the glimpse of that opulence, experiencing unknown delights and getting high over it. Yes, we are yet again spellbound and it is fait accompli.
The grandiose interior of La Scala opera house with its exuberant red velvet combined with golden ornaments all arousing deep reverence within us could not but inspire the high fashion connoisseurs Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to make reference to those great Puccini operas like Tosca, Turandot, and Madame Butterfly held at La Scala in the early 20th century. And they were also so very much inspired by a figure so closely linked with opera-goers’ fashion – the Milanese dressmaker Biki, who had a great affection for big hats and who was in honorable charge to dress the stunning women at opera, but also known as the granddaughter of Puccini. “So you’ll see both the singers and the audience in the collection,” Dolce announced in a preview at the atelier.
No sooner said than done! The most exquisite and luxurious materials and details ever garnered in one place add up to Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda – a great deal of black, red and even deep green velvet just in keeping with the opera house’s interior, intricate ornaments reaching their apogee via Baroque golden threads, a great deal of sumptuous fur and quasi impalpable tulle and lace, grandiose crinolines as numero uno Alta Moda barometers, palatial square shoulders and A-line silhouettes, botanical motifs scintillating through sequins and paisleys, emerald and ruby gemstones, chandelier-style golden earrings and so-typical-of-Dolce & Gabbana high-falutin’ headgear and also those so-mannish pantsuits but more on that later.
The Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda show is definitely one of the most paramount and exclusive events occurring twice a year having kick-started in 2012 and staying so staunch to its private viewing doctrine to open its doors to only 1% of the 1% – the most well-to-do and silk-stocking figures among them being the brand’s most devoted clientele since the year dot, both heirs and heiresses, highballers, bankrollers or else those who have just shaken the pagoda-tree. No less impressive were the floor-scraping gowns and lavish garniture paraded out by those feminine figures, whose identities are off and on kept behind closed doors, who could even make the continuation of that 88-piece collection expanding it to 90, 95 or 100, who knows?
The show got the ball rolling with high drama rendering elegant pieces all enfolded with mourning black – a monumental A-line furry coat with realistic powdery pink flowers on it or a midi body-con dress with a mysterious hood, which was really an icing on the cake. A black midi dress, sleeves and bib edgings trimmed with golden buttons were making a perfect sacramental scene with a large golden catholic cross pendant; a one-shoulder black number was paired with ornamented opera gloves, while a velvet stunner with golden ornamented decorations on the shoulders and belly were to carry us back to antique times, a technique used throughout the whole collection.
We see velvet+golden ornament combo on a deep red gown as well but coming to its head with labyrinthine adornments. The all deep green velvet dress with super restraint design could have considered to be one of the simplest numbers, but not with the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda spring/summer 2016 show, where massive earrings were to amalgamate with equally massive headgear.
The day before the show, as per tradition, was the day for Alta Sartoria collection, all including made-to-measure pieces for men, the traces of which made their way through feminine pieces as well under the guise of a series of masculine three-piece suits with bow-ties on the collars and opera coats thrown over the shoulders.
We see the designers’ great amore for flowers on a handful of gowns and midi dresses that were shining with all their glory through paisleys twinkling high and low, right and left, as well as on a smattering of spring-emanating accessories.
Yes, Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda carries on with its exclusive status, making us get a big wallop out it from season to season. And if a glance at these masterpieces makes our heads spin, what was going on with the psicologia of those sitting right there at La Scala, not to speak about feeling the touch of those delicate fabrics on their own bodies?
Photos courtesy of Vogue