If some day you feel yourself investigating an old attic, staring at antique furniture, smelling the wood and the subtle scent of premium cognac and quite unexpectedly finding out a roomy dower chest chockablock with vintage garments, then rest assured that you have stumbled upon the Belgian fashion brand Dries Van Noten that is targeting eccentric and idiosyncratic women or actively chasing disoriented-in-fashion ladies to treat them with its way-out and erratic masterpieces. The designer of the brand, Dries Van Noten has in no way drifted away from his unique style while presenting his offbeat spring/summer 2016 collection at Paris Fashion Week today. The Belgian designer has definitely taken the garment dower chest to his atelier, worked the clothes out, added some sparkling details here and there, cut out some parts and retailored them in his own style, then used his own fabrics to design brand new matching pieces afterwards forwarding down the runway a mind-blowing assortment of stunning pieces.
“This season it was really about the flamboyant woman – she’s not just eccentric, because that can be old with 25 cats,” the designer said backstage explaining the fabulous Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2016 collection. “She wants to live; she wants to show herself, she wants to enjoy life. She knows how to mix things and she dares to.” The designer definitely knows how to match at-first-sight-incompatible things and he does it so confidently and positively that many women mechanically get infected by his affection starting to mix tulle with satin or blazer with a robe or maybe turtlenecks with bras.
As always the collection is impregnated with deep and muted colors that are naturally never monochrome but blended with each other at times bringing forth five or even six shades in one single ensemble. The spring 2016 lineup comes with new crazy color combinations like golden brown with Yale blue, yellow or purple with silver, sea green with purple and even red-violet with atomic tangerine in one look. A glance at the collection and we instantly catch some rich ornaments, feather-like patterns, fresh leaves and fragrant flowers gracefully decorating the opulent jacquards, satin, gossamer, chiffon and tweed checks that are collectively embellishing the runway with a range of ruffled and tiered skirts and blouses, lounging pajama-like outfits, languid culottes and pants, a series of broad-shouldered trenches, blazers, robes, bomber jackets and dresses. Tulle and sparkling sequins come to be the designer’s most powerful experimentation tools this season.
One time we see a beige tulle robe worn underneath a black trench embellished with purple glittering feather-like patterns, another time we come across a beige tulle dress with tiered skirt worn over a turtleneck, while the finale look merely flabbergasts us with its tulle exuberance: a beige tulle robe worn over a ball dress with massive fringed tulle skirt and the while ensemble comes styled with a knotted brown belt and a purple blazer covered with soft pink ornaments. Actually let us stop here otherwise we will literally get lost in Dries Van Noten’s sophisticated and intricate world.
Chunky sabots in different colors and with different patterns and the glittering round-shaped pendants are seemingly outlining the best trends for the upcoming spring. But what makes really crazy and eccentric springtime trends goes far beyond any shoes, necklaces or headbands. Those are ornamental tattoo-imitating stockings and opera length gloves that are going to take the fashion world by storm and compel many fashion-conscious girls to adopt eccentricity.
Photos courtesy of Vogue