Creative directors Dean and Dan Caten marched straight to the army to find inspiration for the Dsquared2 pre-fall 2016 collection. With direct references to tactical gear, parachutes, and uniforms, this interpretation of inspiration is very direct, yet some stunning garments came as a result. The collection succeeded in making an all-encompassing wardrobe for their customers, with the range of daywear, workwear, and eveningwear.
Much in the brand’s forte, everything stayed feminine. Despite the more masculine source of inspiration, the more literally translated garments were given shape to create a more feminine edge. But that didn’t stop the two genders from fighting for authority in these looks. And with the duo’s extensive background in menswear design, this clashing must come naturally. Some ensembles maintained that masculinity, such as with the full three-piece suit, but paired with the sexy, strappy sandals and dark makeup, a feminine dominance served as a contrast.
It was this combination of footwear and styling that made sure everything remained feminine in the most authoritative way. Even garments that would otherwise seem romantic were given the hard edge of a dark red lip and leather boots or strappy heels. Such as the striking red top with the oversized origami detail, which had the potential to be hot or sweet, and just as every other look in this line, the Caten brothers chose to make it hot.
Since the army theme calls for pristine neatness, the tailoring was exactly where it needed to be in this line. Outerwear was crisp and pants stayed sleek and sharp, while eveningwear looks cut loose a bit, and dared to bare some skin.
Color was sparse in the Dsquared2 pre-fall 2016 collection, but when it popped up it allowed for the perfect element of surprise, without appearing to be out of place; the colors tied in well with the dark, mainly black theme. Quite a few of the black options were some variation of the little black dress. This is always a basic, yet still exciting piece to see in any collection, so it’s even better to see it done in so many lengths and styles.
Some dresses in this collection were based from looks that had become bestsellers in their stores, and with the new army theme in mind, all it took was a little revamping. The signature fabric for the brand, denim was surprising in this collection, in that it was absent. It was interesting to see how the designing duo decided to veer from the brand roots, and also makes it much more exciting to see all of the little black dresses that will be available for the summer season.
The Dsquared2 pre-fall 2016 collection may be a new realm for the Catens, who are known for their exuberant spirit that shines through from uses of color, but the result was sophisticated on a whole new level. Even though it’s not likely that this is a permanently new direction for the designers, it was an exceptional pit stop. And its deviation from the Dsquared2 norm likely won’t hinder sales once the line hits stores; it will be a hot commodity.
Photos courtesy of Vogue