When a designer has already developed an image of “too glam”, “too sporty”, “too daring”, “too colorful”, it’s really hard to present something new to wow your audience. The category label is always in the description. But Edun’s fall/winter 2016 ready-to-wear collection finally walked down the NYFW runway this week, and it accomplished the task perfectly!
Always very graphic, almost unisex (bordering this notion, but not quite there), Danielle Sherman has always been sending us great fashion, and we’ve always been very thankful for it. But this time Sherman had a few twists in the collection. “This is our first time doing something really feminine – our version of feminine,” Sherman revealed to Vogue.
And we loved your feminine Danielle Sherman! Is this stepping into a new phase of creativity, as motherhood changes the approach of this wonderful designer, or is this merely an experiment we’ll remember as a positive memory? We really hope for the former.
Note, this might not be the feminine you’re used to seeing during Dior fashion shows, it’s the Sherman-kind of femininity that is still perfect for movement and void of any restrictions for your body. As an inspiration, Sherman hasn’t used the traditional woman character or a legendary persona we almost forgot or a time period we have a nostalgia for. Instead, she has taken inspiration for her art from art itself.
One of the main things she has mentioned is Sharon Beals’ photography, images where black background is contrasted with a very detailed shot of what a bird’s nest accommodates. Little homes filled with daily necessities and its inhabitants – a couple or more eggs. Now, you might be wondering how that translates into fashion; after all, fashion is all about ways that don’t make you look like a bird’s nest.
The idea is primarily translated into textures, not forms. The designer has used fabrics like tweed, denim and leather – for the actual nest, and such fancy additions like silk and artisan buttons carved from horns – for what would you find inside the nest. One of the most exquisite examples was the navy silk dress with delicate straps and buttons as a print, but also the multi-colored tweed fringe dress (must be real fun to wear!), and the coats.
The color palette included a feminine peach and white, but mostly consisted of dark colors like black and navy. Due to the playful designs, however, the darkness of the colors didn’t make the collection heavy at all.
The asymmetric cuts and lines on garments that you’d think were never tailored give it another twist. The buttons and some details like big and broad stitches on the coats made the designs look tiny, as if they were created for dolls.
As a new kind of showstopper (a much better one than a dress), Sherman appeared on the runway to thank her audience… carrying her newborn baby – perhaps the true inspiration for a feminine collection. This seems like a very special collection with a very special inspiration, don’t waste the garments on regular occasions!
Photos courtesy of Vogue