Designer Elie Saab, who is having an extremely busy month between the past Oscars and the opening of a new store in New York, took Paris by storm presenting his fall/winter 2017-18 fashions grandiosely, treating us to standard Elie Saab refinement that, however, wasn’t banal and repetitive at all.
To better exude and revisit the sense of romanticism he often plays with when it comes to the ready-to-wear collections, Elie Saab drew inspiration from “Giselle”, a treasured romantic ballet that narrates the story of a haunted, tragic young love that keeps on charming spectators from all around the world year after year.
Elie Saab, who often draws inspiration from the theatre, took his Elie Saab fall 2017 collection on Giselle’s stage, infusing each one of his proposals with a sense of opulence that, as Saab himself revealed backstage, might not be suitable for everyone. “I wanted something rich,” he explained. “Maybe it’s less commercial than before and more dramatic.”
Although being dramatic indeed, and with no much variety in terms of the color palette, the collection featured gorgeous outerwear staples too, which inevitably stood out from the crowd among the many evening dresses and richly intricate soigné embroideries. This collection could be, in fact, divided into two main sections – the more elegant and the more wearable one, with the latter being sophisticatedly linked to the former.
Elie Saab’s outerwear was unapologetically sumptuous, with lavish fur, velvet and Chantilly lace patterns adorning the coats, jackets and cropped pants. Albeit including leather garments too, which added slightly glam-rock touches to the entire collection, even the outerwear section looked highly couture-esque, with its it-items, namely the coats, being red carpet-ready for sure.
As for the evening proposals, there it was where Elie Saab gave his sartorial best, as well as where he transposed Giselle’s notes and dance moves to fashion in the most beautiful way possible. A-line skirts, structured puffed-up sleeves, sensual corsets and feathery adornments wavered down the catwalk, playing an even more imposing contrast with some of the collection’s rigorous Victorian-inspired shirts, collars and tops (Giselle premiered in 1841, after all).
As if things were not jaw-dropping enough, makeup artist Tom Pecheux, who also styled Balmain’s fall/winter 2017-18 runway show, gave the models 1001 Nights-inspired looks, focusing on sensual smoky eyes and softly pulled back hair styled in ballerina-inspired buns.
“I put black pencil along the waterlines, then M.A.C. Fluidline gel liner in Blacktrack near the lashes, and add a lot of mascara,” Pecheux revealed. “Then I create the smoky shape with black pencil, and then put black powder shadow on top.”
Although it was nothing new, the final effect was the icing on one of Elie Saab’s most exquisite cakes.
Photos courtesy of Vogue