Has there ever been a more delectable designer collection than each and every one of Elie Saab’s? The Lebanese artist is known for bringing us a fairy tale of beauty, with shimmering fabrics and gliding dresses, silhouettes that are both sensual and utterly fascinating to watch sashaying down the runway, which is why it was interesting to hear that there are changes afoot in the manner in which Saab designs. Every artist needs to be flexible and adapt to an ever-changing society but we also know not to fix something that is not broken, which is why we approached the Elie Saab pre-fall 2016 collection with relative unease.
We had noticed the changes happening from the Elie Saab SS 2016 show cast 2 months back in October, including the shorter hems, the sportier stripes and the whole walks by both Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner thing. Now, we are thrown for a loop again as Wellington boots appear on stage, a fact that has never existed before in an Elie Saab collection. They come in leather and metallic sequin embroideries in order to keep some things in line with the designer’s favored styles, and we certainly appreciate the lack of rubber in this line-up, but we still have to wonder about where our Lebanese favorite is taking it all.
Colors were muted a shade or two but that is all right. It is the Wellingtons that take things a bit too far. Then again, we can grow to like them as well… once we get over our fascination with the fairy tale worlds Saab has generally woven for us.
There are many look we can totally appreciate though. The sequined suit in black with nothing underneath the jacket and a pretty kitten ribbon tied around the neck has a few flavors for us. It speaks sultry while also bringing in a pinch of adorable chic, the style in of itself something delectable. Actually, sequins seem to be a big thing for the Elie Saab pre-fall 2016 collection, appearing on zip-up sweater dresses,
Other trends to take into consideration are the ever beautiful lace concoctions of Saab’s that appear as sleeves, the lower ends of dresses, the accordion pleating in the skirts, all over on minis and maxis, on embroidered jackets held up by ribbons and anywhere else you can think of, including those boots that go up to the knees or stick to the ankles and those lovely ankle length pants. We see shoes that are so very not like the Elie Saab we know, with open toe sandals in chunky styles that are almost reminiscent of Alexander Wang’s.
We rather like seeing colors other than the black as well, with pretty 18th century meets the 20th pink coral designs, interesting fur over lace outfits in Serenity and white, pretty dark teal lace looks and lots of pink and brown floral detailing on black gowns. This is a collection we did not expect from Elie Saab to say the least and we much prefer going back to the fluttery fabrics we have gotten used to. There is too much goth in here to be Elie Saab.
Photos courtesy of Vogue