Canada-born designer Erdem Moralioglu had a clear vision for his Erdem fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection, which mesmerized London Fashion Week with a dream array of floor-length dresses presented at the Old Selfridges Hotel earlier this afternoon.
Erdem Moralioglu’s 40-piece fall 2017 collection was, in fact, almost exclusively composed of long, tailored dresses, with the sole exception of two pairs of trousers. Variegated and profoundly diverse in its motifs, all of the collection’s staples were, however, interconnected to one another, displaying a contrasting unity that was the runway show’s biggest strength, too.
All in all, Erdem Moraliouglu’s latest collection appeared sharply modest and rigorous in style, with Nehru collars and austere figures dominating the scene. To light things up, the designer centered all the attention on the detailing, wherein the collection’s beauty lay.
Intricate and extremely detailed indeed, the collection’s beauty was well expressed in two specific motifs, the heritages of which are personally dear to the designer himself, too. Born in Montreal, Canada, to a Turkish father and an English mother, the fashion designer grew up between Montreal and Birmingham, in England, caught up between these two different worlds of his.
For this Erdem fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection, Moralioglu travelled geographically back in time combining both his Turkish and British heritage in his staples, opening up to us intimately like he has never done before. “Normally the collections have a fictional narrative that feels quite far away,” Moralioglu said backstage, “but this time it was much more personal.”
All of the staples’ intricate detailing, prints, embellishments and textures drew inspiration from the old Ottoman Empire, where wealthy women were often seen wearing artistically opulent items in abundance.
Although being almost entirely covered with such artistically tailored masterpieces, Erdem women’s silhouettes were emphasized and celebrated to the fullest, with either hints of cleavage unveiled through drop-like cut-outs, or tactic embroideries arranged specifically to accentuate the hourglass figures. One of the collection’s most astounding parts was that, somehow, Erdem managed to celebrate femininity in 40 different ways, with each ensemble treating us to one-of-a-kind aesthetics.
To better give room for us to play with individuality, the Erdem fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection treated us to jackets and coats aplenty, which also infused the overall runway show with its ultimate haute couture-esque touch.
The accessory line wasn’t of course left by chance either. The fashion designer matched each one of his staples with an appropriate and equally opulent pair of shoes, among which the boots and the babouche slippers were the most memorable, for sure. Here, he managed to combine the Turkish and the British heritages all together once again, even completing some shoes by adding one of the most personal touches any designer could ever think of for a seasonal ready-to-wear collection – the striped ribbons of his great-grandfather’s military medals.
Photos courtesy of Vogue