Fausto Puglisi played a lot with juxtaposition in his spring 2016 show for Milan Fashion Week. His trademark style definitely showed through, and he took some daring new risks that add a new dimension to what ready-to-wear can mean. Just by looking at the clothes you can see that the designer wanted to go in many different directions, and he did. From the cowboy boots to use of red white and blue, some looks were inspired by American culture, while other looks used metallics in a futuristic approach. Above all, there was a Greek/Roman theme present throughout the Fausto Puglisi spring/summer 2016 collection, from the fabric choices to the draping.
The fabrics he chose for the collection can only be described as liquid. The way the fabrics shined and fluidly moved down the runway showed his masterful eye for fabric and for draping. There were some truly beautiful pieces sent down the runway, but the collection left me feeling slightly unsatisfied. Maybe it’s just the hype of Fashion Week, but this line made me feel the urge to see some new trend pop up from Fausto’s usual aesthetic. As I said, the collection was breathtaking and modern, but there was no true “wow piece” for me. With the initial statement his collection seemed to be making, I expected an exceptional finale piece, rather than the pretty but done-before white Greek dress.
One exceptional look that I love looking at (but wouldn’t care to wear myself) was his piece with strips of black jersey in a sort of woven pattern, adorned with metal buttons on intersections. This piece was so unique, and made me feel the need to see more of this collection. If these elements had been used more, the Fausto Puglisi spring 2016 lineup would have been a homerun from my perspective.
Puglisi played around with the form of garments, shown in the way he showed half of one dress sewn to half of another – a simple, slim black dress paired with a lightly pleated, A-line white one. He used this juxtaposition so well, and I would have loved it even more if he had used more of this in his collection, and instead omitted some of his other details. It could have been a truly groundbreaking garment if he had mixed those last two ideas together. If he had used the jersey-lacing pattern alongside his Greek goddess inspired patterns, it could have blown the audience away as a finale piece.
Fausto Puglisi will always have that special place in my heart, and I love how easy it is to tell which looks are his, if paired side by side. But sometimes you just want that little extra push from a designer that would add a brand new level of beauty to a collection, and that little push could have made this runway show truly spectacular.
Photos courtesy of Vogue