Already dubbed neo-grunge, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s creations for their FAY spring/summer 2017 collection brought a sort of tailored military rigour onstage, infusing this current Milan Fashion Week with solely Nineties-inspired vibes.
Inseparable and with complementary points of views on fashion, for next year’s spring/summer season the creative duo managed to skillfully blend in together two of the world’s most contrasting patterns and cultures: the rebellious grunge youth versus the strictness and authority of military fashion. The Fay spring/summer 2017 collection shares sharp clean cuts with overall more grunge-inspired cuts and lines, refined in their uniqueness thanks to the use of delicate floral embroideries and frilled hems.
The overall collection’s geometrics and textured materials trace us back to Aquilano and Rimondi’s origins.
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi met in 1998 at Max Mara’s headquarters, more specifically at the fashion house’s design department, where Rimondi had already been working as a stylist consultant for a few years. At Max Mara they not only learnt how to perfectly combine their strengths together, but also how to better develop their identities and aesthetics into something that could be equally contemporary and refined.
This Fay collection reminds us of both Max Mara’s approach to modern time silhouettes, and Aquilano and Rimondi’s first ventures as a creative duo in the fashion industry, such as those at Gianfranco Ferrè.
The 32-piece Fay spring/summer 2017 line-up features thus everything from lightweight leather biker jackets to oversized short-sleeved shirts, with a strong focus on safari dresses and military trench coats. As seen in the collection’s color palette too, which solely includes dark tones, the collection could not be described as conventionally inspired by spring’s lively air, or by summer’s shiny days, as both the military and grunge-inspired themes worked together to create something that could be as gloomy as fascinating.
The collection seems, in fact, to be popped out of sort of retro-futuristic sub-urban scenario, with turtleneck short-sleeved sweatshirts, Matrix-revisited coats and billowy culottes dominating the scene. A few knitted crop-tops inevitably remind us of a Lara Croft meets haute couture sort of mismatching motif, while softer, more delicate miniskirts in pale gray interrupt this strictness with ephemeral, purely feminine aesthetics.
Sheer and sequined patterns find their way through the collection as well, only to be quickly engulfed in the line-up’s dystopian pattern, and to just come out of it being wrapped up by its rebellious yet strict beauty.
Last but not least, we strongly recommend taking a look at the collection’s accessory line, as designers Aquilano and Rimondi perfectly managed to add a contemporary turn to the Nineties-inspired cloth belts, totes and gladiator sandals.
Photos courtesy of Vogue