It’s interesting when we are faced with incredibly rebellious beauty tactics by fashion designers showing off their pieces on the fashion week runways, but this time around, nothing can get more unpredictably eccentric than the Gothic designs of the GILES fall/winter 2015-2016 collection. Think black lipstick, hair pulled back into a French braid with a black bow at the edge and black and white garments being paraded onto the runway, complete with frills bows and neoprene. And then walks in the lady in the white shirtdress with the huge orange sash tied as a bow. So many of the pieces reminded us of sexy but demure secretaries and fashionable judges, while others were so typically English or French. The black stockings were never far from the ladies, and the Victorian style high ruffled collars marked so many of the pieces. Of course, the opposite would have to exist as well to balance out the effects, so strapless numbers found their way in as well.
Loose bodies and swirling designs were contrasted with cinched waists and full length dresses in billowing lightweight materials. It was funny to see a long yellow dress appear below the tie die designs, which were given their 15 seconds of fame, boasting muted pastel colors. Otherwise, no other form of color appeared on the catwalk, other than a few creamier silk options that remind us of modernized 1800’s style dresses. Between the black bows and the white frills, we know we’ve been thrown into a time loop as it is!
While the first of the line wore low-heeled triangular toed shoes with a big blue flower on top, most others were simple black or grey and black patterned designs, among which off-white pieces dotted about. Giles Deacon has certainly done a fantastic job with this rebellious bit going against all the trends that have become commonplace on the runway to date and throwing it all to the wind. Officially presenting his first collection on the London Fashion Week in 2004, his knack for style and his individualistic unique flavour have become the basis for the “Best New Designer” and “British Designer of the Year” awards in 2005 and 2006 respectively.
Black dominated the catwalk, what with the coats, the sleeves capes and slit sleeve ponchos, while a totally red carpet worthy dark indigo and white swirling dress caught our attentions very nicely. It appears birds may have had some form of inspirational effect on the GILES fall/winter 2015-2016 collection as well for we do see feathers and then layer upon layer of ruffles, with the chest curved upward and the fabric allowing to cover the face if need be, like some kind of aviary mating tradition. Even the model’s prancing and dancing about reminded us of such an effect, as if it was a manner of seduction that could be used to lure in the best of mates.
Giles Deacon is known to challenge the traditional ideas of womenswear and while he normally would use prints that are considered wild and pop culture references in his designs, this time he opted for something that would throw us back a century or two or three instead of just a few decades to the 1970s and so many of the best designers out there have been doing. His work has been called randomness incarnate and his abilities in fashion hinge on a much needed injection of grand scale glamour. We can certainly say he has not failed to deliver in this respect.
Photos courtesy of Style.com