Giles Deacon has made the decision to temporarily discontinue his label’s ready-to-wear lines, in favor of focusing more heavily on couture. While our wallets might not necessarily agree, the runway showing might just make this swap much more tantalizing. This change means Deacon has dropped his slot for London Fashion Week, and we will instead be seeing his creations in July for the Paris Couture schedule.
“We want to focus on what we do well, and maximize the success of the red carpet and private client work we’ve been doing over the past four years. We want to be the go-to business for super special daywear and eveningwear, to focus on what we are known for, and what our customers want from us,” said Deacon, in an interview with WWD. The designer hopes to use this transition to gain a closer relationship with his client base, and shorten the time it takes for clothes to make it from the runway to the customer’s wardrobe.
“With couture, it means I get to show fall in July, with delivery in September. My clients will be getting their pieces in season,” he continued. He also disclosed the price range of the Giles Couture collection, where customers can expect to find a bespoke dress between £3,000 and £5,000 or a stunning red carpet look from £50,000 to £70,000. So the prices are naturally higher than that of a ready-to-wear collection, but the couture garments will likely be much more special and extravagant, not to mention that the clothes will be released in the actual seasons they should be worn in.
Deacon isn’t alone in his venture for change amongst the fashion industry ranks. Many other designers have expressed similar desires recently, and there are likely many more to have the same urge.
Designer Matthew Williamson dropped his London Fashion Week slot last year, much as Deacon has done now, and decided to use a “see-now-buy-now” method of ecommerce in order to be more focused on his client base. So the two designers had a similar outcome in mind, but decided to go about the process in different ways.
New York Fashion Week slots being dropped are label Thakoon and designer Rebecca Minkoff, among others, who are looking to offer their lines directly after the runway showing. All of these are legitimate options and ways to create a more direct line to the consumer, but it is great to see the designers trying to establish those types of connections.
“This business gives you a lot more control, because it means everything that’s ordered is sold, and each customers gets an individual pieces,” Deacon said about his decision to transfer into couture. His plan for transition includes strengthening his design teams in Paris and London, where we can expect to see a new showroom pop up in Mayfair. He is also hopping on board with the virtual trend of the new seasons, as he is looking into the pros and cons of offering a virtual fashion show. These are all moves, which will see a great deal of support from just about anyone, as what could be better than a more immersive fashion experience, especially when Giles Deacon is at the helm.
Photo courtesy of Vogue