Like Moschino’s show unveiled a few days ago, Givenchy’s take on the couture season slightly veered toward politics as well, with creative director Riccardo Tisci trying to focus on positivity for his Givenchy Couture spring/summer 2017 collection.
Tisci’s Givenchy men’s wear fall 2017 and Couture spring 2017 runway show was, in fact, unveiled in Paris on the exact same inauguration day of the (now) 45th president of the US, inevitably infusing the show with mixed feelings of concern for the future and anticipation for the actual collections.
Tisci, who started his Givenchy show paying homage to Franca Sozzani with a minute of silence, decided, however, to concentrate all of his visions on fashion on a surprisingly positive note, the motifs of which come after 9 long years of pure darkness and (already signature) Gothic inspirations. “For nine years as a designer, I did darkness. I’ve just come out of that,” he almost solemnly declared backstage.
Tisci’s new positive perspectives on life set him on a journey to the USA, the wild, wild West-inspired scenarios of which particularly helped him find sources of inspiration for both his men’s wear fall 2017 and Couture spring 2017 collections. Although it is with the men’s wear collection that we see how deeply involved with the American theme he was, the Givenchy Couture spring 2017 lineup was equally, yet more glamorously inspired by some of America’s most iconic motifs, both those that remind us of the Hollywood divas and those that go back in time revisiting his own aesthetics.
“I try to be positive, to see things positively for the future,” Tisci told WWD, explaining that instead of filtering the future of the USA through a fearful lens, he looked at the whole situation “through the eyes of a child. […] I did it my own way: graphic and pop and much more ironic and fun, which is what I see a future for — things that are more positive and more light,”
In doing so, he also inevitably reaffirmed his deeply conceptual visions on fashion, namely those of a creative director that sees garments, as well as the models (and then the customers) who are wearing them as multi-dimensional personas that flamboyantly open up to the world that surrounds them with their artistic, philosophical and inspirational accents.
For these reasons, he also tapped habitué muses Mariacarla Boscono, Lea T, Liya Kebede, Joan Smalls, Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, Vittoria Ceretti, Yasmin Wijnaldum, Blanca Padilla, Angelica Erthal, and Elizabeth Salt as the Givenchy Couture spring 2017 show’s models, capturing a sense of reassuring continuity that already is one of Givenchy’s most acclaimed patterns.
As for Tisci’s take on the couture season, the designer either focused on nostalgic Vichy patterns, frilled detailing on pilgrim collars as well as hems, or on more Twenties and Thirties-inspired designs, such as sensually sheer fabrics and feathered appliqués. He did not, however, forget to add a few of his notorious gothic patterns here and there (of course here revisited through an appealing modern lens of the famous Grant Wood’s painting “American Gothic”), thus delivering three different perspectives on the contemporary woman.
While on the one hand we have the woman that likes to dare with sensually revisited prairie dresses, on the other we have the one that is currently looking for “Roaring” proposals to surprise us with. In between these stereotypes, albeit of no less importance, there is woman who is hopelessly in love with Riccardo Tisci’s signature gothic aesthetics, and always looks forward to his collections to add one of his pieces to her wardrobe.
Photos courtesy of Vogue