When Riccardo Tisci took the helm at Givenchy in 2005, everybody knew big things were about to happen. He gave Givenchy his unique melancholic and Gothic takes on fashion confirming his passion for mystique once again through his latest Givenchy fall/winter 2016-2017 ready-to-wear collection. Unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, the collection intricately mixes sensuality with both Egyptian and Tibetan motifs, marking a new beginning for the French fashion house.
Tisci himself revealed back at the Givenchy spring 2016 show at New York Fashion Week that his work at the Maison was about to drastically change. To emphasize such a change, he even made it possible for a larger audience to attend his shows, lessening the distances between haute couture and those who aren’t actual customers, but look at fashion as an inspiring form of art and would just love it to be more accessible.
We could thus regard the Givenchy fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection as an official new beginning and debut for Riccardo Tisci, who specifically chose Egypt to accentuate such a purpose. “Egypt for me is like the beginning of everything, for writers, for food, for everything. It’s been a long time that I’ve wanted to do this collection,” declared Tisci backstage, adding even more anticipation to the show.
Aside from Egyptian motifs, Tisci also mixed Tibetan Mandalas and contemporary animal prints in most of his designs, managing to balance the overwhelming wave of ancient references with a mystical philosophy and a more modern twist on fashion. Most of the Mandala-inspired pieces also exude some clear Seventies vibes, as they look like haute couture Woodstock-approved garments.
Tisci, who remained true to his signature Gothic style, chose a darker color palette for this thrilling collection, alternating the blacks, burgundies and browns with softer beige, fire red and even white touches. As for the collection’s colorful geometrical patterns, they may be surely bright and bold, but somehow inevitably contribute to accentuating the line-up’s overall dark side.
Animal prints and hieroglyphic patterns peacefully coexist as well, denoting once again Tisci’s ability to create a perfectly balanced, controlled chaos. As for the cuts, lines and silhouettes, the collection is even more versatile and multifaceted. The opulent Egypt-inspired and animal-printed garments got enriched with modern-day interpretations of most of the Sixties trends, such as balloon skirts, bomber jackets and midi dresses, while Mandala-printed frocks could be inevitably linked to the hippie subculture as we mentioned before.
Bolero jackets, layered looks, and mannish coats could instead remind most of you of the Eighties, as they definitely play with an appealing androgynous sensuality. To top it all off, Tisci even added significant Nineties references with a few extremely well-tailored slip dresses and super-deep plunging-V necklines. Those who like less colored patterns can, of course, always count on Tisci’s total black proposals, which got further enriched with statement jewelry pieces and sleek fabrics, like edgy leather.
Although undergoing a fashion metamorphosis, Tisci’s Givenchy still manages to cling to some of the fashion house’s signature looks (such as jackets with square shoulders and knee-length ladylike dresses), proving however that to remain true to one’s roots, one doesn’t necessarily need to almost always doggedly propose again and again the same, as the precise old patterns and the same tradition surely can go hand in hand with innovation.
Photos courtesy of Vogue