When Alessandro Michele came to take the 95-year-old Gucci under his wings, we could grasp from his very first collection rendered out that the designer stands out with his blue-sky thinking. His aesthetics to work out laid-back and ethereal pieces instantly warming the cockles of our hearts surely runs counter to Gucci’s former designer Frida Giannini’s slick tailoring and more mature vision over female beauty. Michele breathed some youthful vibes into the brand and impregnated it with as many details, accessories and attributes as possible.
Accessories is the designer’s security blanket, for sure which gives birth to some Heath Robinson samples that need watchful eyes and at least 10 minutes of investigation to figure out what is what. Each of them, mind! The Gucci fall/winter 2016-2017 ready-to-wear collection, already unveiled albeit not properly investigated yet (that needs more time, really), carries the title Rhizomatic Scores as a reference to the philosophical theories of Deleuze and Guattari.
Risoma is described as a vertiginous labyrinth without any start and end, without any centre and corners, much like the Gucci ready-to-wear pieces sent forward down the runway to somewhat alarming music beats by Sylvano Bussotti for pianist David Tudor. When the graphics and floral projections on multiple screens started flashing fiercely, Alessandro Michele buckled down to open his doors to vine and dine us with an ample 71-piece collection.
Gucci’s newly developed nerdy girl was of course in attendance and, to all appearances, will be as long as Alessandro is taking the reins. But what kind of transformations she would undergo in the future depends on fluctuations and vibrations of Michele’s creative mind. Today’s nerdy girl was acting high and mighty cocooned with some sinister air, passing through the narrow catwalk extremely carefully. For that cautious catwalk we might lay blame on those high wedges, sky-high stilettos and zebra striped platforms or else the ominous snakes embroidered on a slew of pieces.
Whatever it was, this was not run-of-the-mill catwalking but raising some bizarre and outlandish feeling within us especially when the Canadian portraiture photographer, fashion photographer and fashion designer Petra Collins sashayed down the runway making her runway debut for Gucci today decked out into a jacquard skirt suit with hair strangely puffed and head thrown back with some haughty demeanor.
We were already familiar with the designer’s signature ruffles appearing this time again on an amaranth pink blouse with many layers, on a flaring tulle gown on the cuffs and the bib, on the shoulder of a crimson red mini dress or on a knitted red cape all wrapped with ruffles. Equally were we familiar with his romantic pussycat bows, abstract prints all mixed with each other on a single look and those amazing 3D motifs. We saw them all in spades again feasting eyes on that lovely mint green cape with 3D fold prints on it, and then we were bowled over those crazy combinations of floral prints with abstract motifs.
But the nitty-gritty of the Gucci fall 2016 collection was the use of those puffed sleeves that were running over high and low, right and left whether on a double-breasted white coat opening the show, a black jacket with golden embroidery or on a knitted blouse with a pair of parrots. And also those club-ready glittering pieces, mandarin collar dresses, crimson cherub prints on a skirt or on a chic strapless gown with heart shape neckline…
The collection also opened its doors leading us to a menageire replete with creepy snakes, roaring panthers, wise owls, parrots and goodness knows what else. A tulle dramatic gown in black was shocking with its multiple ruffled layers, opera gloves and that extremely realistic snake embroidery sprawling on the model’s chest, while the snake on the silk pink dress had the whole three heads.
A couple of dresses are surely to touch the red carpet in the nearest future – the green silk frock with massive ruffles on sleeves and on hems that was demonstrating crazy movements, a tulle dress in soft peach the bottom going all feathered rainbow, another sheer impalpable gown embellished with 3D red flowers and green leaves.
The outerwear was running the gamut ranging from street-style bomber jackets and leathered cool pieces to luxurious furry coats in lovey-dovey pink, vibrant orange or yellow shades. Oh, and that goat hair green-orange coat was really some pumpkins!
If Alessandro Michele, than the runway bursting at the seams with accessories. From fedora hats and French berets to mysterious veils and turbans – all of them rolled into one runway show. Want more headwear? Knitted versions with Peter Pan syndrome and caps with glittering embroidery and in an unexpected combination with evening dresses? There were also intricate necklaces, multi-finger ring bracelets, glittering glasses, vibrant tights all of them making us go into raptures. This was REAL GUCCI – a case in point that matte black bag worked out in collaboration with graffiti artist Trouble Andrew!
Photos courtesy of Vogue