Here we are with one of this Milan Fashion Week’s most anticipated runway shows: Alessandro Michele’s Gucci spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection. For his Gucci spring 2017 collection, creative director Alessandro Michele outdid himself indeed, evolving the past collections’ motifs into a completely new, modernist aesthetic we already love.
Throughout this collection it is possible to catch sight of most of the designs and details spotted in the Gucci resort 2017 and Gucci spring/summer 2016 collections, from the soft, delicate colors to Alessandro Michele’s unconditional love for geek-inspired styles. This spring/summer 2017 line-up also showed Alessandro Michele’s most conceptual side, with his aesthetics not being just about fashion anymore.
This latest collection deeply analyzes our society’s (double) standards and cultures, with many speculations whether Alessandro Michele aimed at taking a sort of political turn throughout this line-up or not. Most of the harmonious figures have been, in fact, often paired with gloomier and darker statements, such as “cemetery” and “future”, as well as by contrasting slogans such as “l’aveugle pour amour” and “blind for love”.
“The narrative principle is non-linear; it is made of ruptures, digs, leaps, cross-references and unpredictable connections. An archipelagic and metamorphic approach in which the thought overflows undisciplined and doesn’t follow in the wake of tradition,” cryptically read one of the runway show’s notes.
If there’s one thing we are sure of, that’s the fact that duality is at the core of this collection, with Eighties-inspired vibes naturally framing the contrasting patterns.
The 75-piece lineup features, in fact, everything from super puffed-up shoulders to heavily layered fringed staples, with softer shades alternating brighter, glittery hues.
The contrasting pattern is strong even within the fabric choice, with Alessandro Michele having fun with both lightweight fabrics such as jacquard and cotton, and with sleeker plastic materials, as well as rigid leather.
Of course, the collection’s overall lines and silhouettes share dichotomist patterns too. While on one hand Alessandro Michele focused on uber-feminine lines, on the other he treated us to more masculine ones, epitomizing them with menswear proposals, sported by male models.
All of the 75 proposals featured three common themes. Aside from dichotomy, Gucci’s spring/summer 2017 collection shared common horror circus-themed fil rouge, with zebra patterns and circus-inspired jackets revamping this gloomy motif from time to time. Alessandro Michele’s circus theme got then enhanced by the runway show’s dark location and settings, as well as by Jayde Fish’s illustrations, with the drawings embroidered on most of the collection’s accessories.
Alessandro Michele discovered Jayde Fish on Instagram, immediately falling in love with her style. He then asked her to work with him on his Gucci spring/summer 2017 majestic line-up. Being accidentally scouted by Alessandro Michele might not feel like the best experience in the world, but we bet it’s the closest one you can get.
The collection’s third theme lies, instead, in the nostalgic approach to Gucci’s legacy, enhanced with Gucci’s signature stripes and coordinate sets. Alongside contemporary airy rainbow gowns, pineapple-shaped sleeves, tunics and structured frocks, Alessandro Michele managed to charm us with the Italian fashion house’s memorable pussy bows and bon-ton cardigans, paired with mid-calf-length skirts and oversized jackets.
Meant to be mixed and matched and also letting us get lost into a sort of cryptic, nostalgic future, the Gucci spring/summer 2017 collection leaves us both speechless and with many unanswered questions, yet with the sole and undeniable certainty that Alessandro Michele hit it big once again.
Photos courtesy of Vogue