Since January 2015, Guy Laroche has undergone major changes in term of style. Founded in 1957, the fashion house has a new creative director since March 2015 – the American designer Adam Andrascik (no one knows why former creative director Marcel Marongiu has been replaced). Today, at Paris Fashion Week he debuted his designs for the house showcasing the Guy Laroche spring/summer 2016 collection that uses wartime references fused with tropical motifs. As a result, we witnessed one of the most wearable lines in terms of daytime clothing pieces, which still manage to look totally unique and creative when it comes to the unconventional designs.
Andrascik, who launched his first eponymous line in 2011 and who is mainly known for his deconstructed and sculptural cuts, defines his style as a ‘work in progress’, and is said to be very much influenced by Japanese and Belgian designers (especially by Martin Margiela). We shouldn’t thus be surprised to see a new, maybe even more contemporary perspective to future Laroche’s collections, the signature style of which has always been effortlessly chic and classique. For this spring 2016 collection, called ‘Trouble in Paradise’, Andrascik combined military-precision cuts with cool beach clothes, managing to find a good intermediary between these two completely different worlds. If that doesn’t sound brave enough to you, take a look at how he has recently explained his choices: “I felt that to be true to the spirit of the house, that we have to take some risks, we have to kind of see what works and what doesn’t and we go from there.”
The Guy Laroche spring 2016 collection, which for the most part features khaki and dark green trench coats, asymmetrically cut t-shirts and dresses, and golden appliqués of sunsets and palm trees, is nothing like the previous one, and looks for new forms of self-expression trough clothes that are neither entirely feminine, nor too masculine. In fact, although the collection features androgynous references, the wide trousers and longuette skirts seem to be perfectly meant for women’s curves, while the strategic cut-outs on deconstructed biker jackets expose sensual portions of bare shoulders, giving more balance to the figure. The more conventionally feminine side of the collection finds also a good ally with some delicate off-shoulders dresses and tied up crop tops, which will probably be the most worn items of the collection this spring. While only a few asymmetrical top and dresses reveal some naked arms, bare legs are most of the time the sole protagonist of the collection, shown through mini-skirts adorned with chunky chains and tied up mini-dresses and skirts.
Contrasting fabrics and patchworks take the collection back to its unisex side, whereas layered skirts and deconstructed tops remind us of Andrascik’s passion for sculptural cuts. Knowing that, compared to his previous collection, the bar was set higher for this show, the designer has tried to both honor Guy Laroche’s heritage as well as his own personal background. At the end of the day, we have to admit he surely took some risks with his choices, but whether they are worth it or not, it’s just a matter of time.
Photos courtesy of Vogue