Paris Fashion Week spring 2017 is about to end, and it really seems like Saturday was specifically made for street style and punk wear. Haider Ackermann also celebrated both street wear and punk rock with his newly unveiled Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2017 collection, adding his omnipresent dynamic approach to this inspiring fashion month.
Colombian fashion designer Haider Ackermann, who got appointed as Berluti’s creative director earlier this September, chose to focus on both the Eighties and the early Nineties for his spring collection, fusing punk rock vibes with athleisure-inspired staples and even heroin chic hints.
As a result, the collection turned out to be extremely variegated, with both eccentric proposals and more sinuous evening staples dominating the scene. All of the ensembles featured Ackermann’s signature dynamic tailored touch, even when displaying more relaxed, airy lines.
Of course, since this is Haider Ackermann’s collection, a great majority of the proposals got combined together to create rather risqué outfits, which sensually infused the runway show with confidence and attitude. As a whole, however, the Haider Ackermann spring 2017 ready-to-wear line-up treated us to wearable pieces that could be easily mixed and matched with anything we already own, even with more bon-ton pieces.
The lineup featured both highly versatile garments, such as billowy t-shirts and cozy sweatshirts, and more flamboyant proposals, which might not be suitable for those who do not like to be the center of the attention.
While constantly toying with proportions, the designer delivered ultra whimsical statement pieces, such as metallic skinny pants, Eighties-inspired animal-printed jackets and skirts, floor-length gowns with jaw-dropping slits, and even kimono jumpsuits with super plunging V-necklines. Needless to say, he often let the models wear such pieces all together or with most of the menswear-inspired suits, with only a jacket to cover the chests.
The Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2017 collection was inevitably strong on suits too, as Ackermann has always showed his admiration for Yves Saint Laurent’s signature mannish suits. He has actually often been compared to Yves Saint Laurent, and just by looking at this latest Haider Ackermann collection, we easily understand why.
With references that ranged from loungewear to heroin chic and even standard Sixties-inspired suits, Ackermann’s suits line was both elegantly refined and innovative, as he often left something inexplicably undone that was just extremely captivating.
As for the collection’s must-have pieces, he often paired fresh, graphic street-wear t-shirts and sweatshirts with bon-ton skirts, in a combination that reminds us of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior spring 2017 lineup, and that will likely become one of next summer’s signature styles.
Photos courtesy of Vogue