The most distinctive trait of the collections presented by French-Colombian designer Haider Ackerman is probably the inconsistency of the pieces he creates. The designer loves to experiment not only with color shades and fabrics, but also with different fashion styles as well. Ackerman’s style can be described both as casual and elegant as we have seen the designer create pieces in street style and more feminine pieces with refined, polished silhouettes. The Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2015 collection that was introduced today at Paris Fashion Week was more inclined towards belonging to the second type.
Ackerman is a big fan of layering, although when creating layers, he tends not to hide the figure but to emphasize its advantages. The collection was entirely designed in neutral tones and had some soothing and calming way about itself. Ackerman had abundantly used satin to design two piece suits with long, loose fitting pants and matching V-neck jackets, square shoulder jackets with ruffled sleeves, long flowy coats worn over asymmetric miniskirts and thin tops, layered asymmetric skirts that were teamed with short belted jackets, V-neck long vests and so on. The designer had also used the versatile fabric to create soft layers that were added to the hems of vests, jackets and tops emphasizing the hip area.
Although the Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2015 collection started with an asymmetric off-the-shoulder long-sleeved romper, while the separates turned out to be the prevailing force of the collection. Besides the already mentioned delicate pieces from satin, we also saw very thin sweaters worn over sheer shirts and paired with loose fitting pants, cropped pants combined with suede belted jackets, very fragile pale purple high neckline jumpsuits teamed with long, satin jackets, black low fits belted pants patched with beige stripes on the sides and paired with sleeveless V-neck vest-tops, with belts around the waist (two belts in one look-seemed a pretty interesting idea to us).
For his final looks, Ackerman had designed very thing spaghetti strap dresses in dark gray patched with black cutouts (rather interesting were the hems of the dresses, which were some kind of mixture of layers and ruffles), hip hugger cropped pants in black and a combination of satin pants and short matching jackets in light gray worn over brown “ruffly” top.
The designer also presented several all-white looks consisting of cropped cotton pants in white with matching thin long-sleeved tops, figure hugging pants and long layered jackets, high waisted pants and matching square shoulder long-sleeved tops and so on.
For shoes, we had high-heeled strappy sandals and ankle boots. All of the models were sporting short, cropped hairstyles, which were in perfect harmony with the feminine pieces (yet another proof that short hair can be feminine as well!).
Overall, the Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2015 collection turned out to be rather structured and the models looked very feminine and, at the same time, quite independent and powerful. We are sure that lovers of ruffles and layers will have a field day browsing through the French label’s new collection.
Photos courtesy of Vogue UK