Ballet is one of art’s finest forms, and Lubov Azria knows it. For her Heve Leger by Max Azria spring/summer 2017 collection, Lubov Azria let her creative stream of consciousness literally dance the night away, drawing inspiration from ballet’s freedom of movement and expression.
Unveiled at New York Fashion Week, the newest Herve Leger by Max Azria lineup translates what could be regarded as a sort of Black Swan theme to a more contemporary, yet timeless legacy, proving the signature Herve Leger’s bondage dress can indeed fluctuate from a sexier to a softer, if not even bon-ton-ish look.
To better embrace the ‘good vs evil’ motif à la Black Swan, Lubov Axria looked to ballet’s ultimate bad boy, Sergei Polunin. Reckless, tattoo-covered, dubbed the greatest dancer of his generation (many are already comparing him to Nureyev), Ukrainian Sergei Polunin became internationally famous after uploading his ‘Take me to Church’ ballet on YouTube, quickly scoring more than 15 million views.
Director Steven Cantor got then so fascinated by the dancer’s temper and rare talent that he felt the urge to let him play the leading role of his ‘Dance’ documentary. Polunin’s poise and power, along with Cantor’s perspective on the dancer inevitably captured Lubov’s heart as well, making her eager to forever encapsulate such a dual soul in her spring/summer 2017 collection, too.
Like Polunin, who is slowly modernizing, yet always showing respect for one of art’s most introspective forms, Lubov Azria also decided to reinvent Max Azria’s signature lines, cuts and overall styles, offering us a dream array of delicate organza and tulle refinements along with some of the most modernist proposals she has created so far.
Although the notorious sensuality and curve-hugging silhouette of the bondage dress is still there, the Herve Leger by Max Azria spring/summer 2017 collection focuses more on a never-before-seen freedom of movement, enhanced in its dynamicity with loads of frilled hems, layers of pleats and even drop-waisted peplum cuts.
Geometric embroideries and tactic, beaded motifs lighten up the sharpest designs, while at the same time alternating dark and softer color patterns. As a whole, the collection fluctuates between lighter and gloomier shades too, with pastel colors such as blush pink and dust light blue easily finding their way through the blacks and dark grays.
Patchworks of different materials and bright, wide belts cinched around the waists remind us of Polunin’s visionary talent, while asymmetrical hems and strategic cut-outs confirm Lubov Azria’s never-ending passion for astounding and modernist details.
This Herve Leger by Max Azria spring 2017 collection is one-of-a-kind indeed and, although it will certainly not appeal to everyone, it surely marks one of the season’s most surprising turning points.
Photos courtesy of Vogue