As New York Fashion Week is on the go unveiling creative collections of famous fashion designers for the upcoming spring/summer 2016 season, we are thrilled to see every single piece. Though, frankly, surprising people with something very new and original is very hard considering the unlimited experience that they’ve had seeing literally anything done on the catwalk. The ICB brand has just come up with a pretty unusual spring/summer 2016 collection of ready-to-wear pieces by the new creative director Makoto Takada, and it is apt to bring a big surprise. During the long 21 years of its existence the brand has not gained much popularity, though the two previous seasons seemed to prove that the new designer is determined for changes. This is Makoto’s third try to boost the brand up by new ideas and it might prove to the point.
As long as shirting was Prabal Gurung’s signature step for the brand’s pieces, we see a sort of continuation here with a lot of strict shirt-dresses, suits and classic straight pants, which are at the same time novelties. Having the image of a corporative worker in his mind, the designer went for creating numbers that would suit the strict dress code and be different at the same time. He brought here the common oxford shoes and embellished them with unexpected feathers that were stitched in India. These shoes look like a weird combo of sneakers, loafers and sandals for the open back, which looks a little confusing. And for a brighter imagery of an inside-heart rebel, Takada made classic pantsuits with oversize straight pants, prolonged blazer and a shirt in the form of a dress. The latter would look pretty adorable worn by itself, though with this kind of match it loses some of its charm making the model seem overclothed.
We do like certain numbers in the ICB spring/summer 2016 collection, like the light-blue shirt-dress-coat kind of thing with a white dress underneath that though strange, but works really well, or the coral-red knee-length dress with wide mesh inserts that are again mind-contradicting showing so much skin and closing everything at the same time. The black dress of the same kind is also very beautiful and much wearable ideal for work, everyday walks and night-outs. Many pieces of peculiar interest are the peachy pink pantsuits, wide beige dresses, black-and-white tube skirts with matching tops, a lot of light-color tops, shirts and pants that come in most unexpected matches worn over and under. For the women, who will buy these, there are little secret surprises: in the strict-structure blazer a piece of nude crepe is sewed in a way that it shows out only in motion, sheer grid in black wool trousers, delicate feathers on the blue shirt’s chest.
The ICB spring 2016 collection was created with a peculiar inspirational background: a Chicago-based nanny named Vivian Maier, who became famous posthumously, gave the idea of self-confidence, belief in his talent and enjoying it on his own not needing any appreciation from the outside world. The woman took pictures of random people giving the photos touching narratives, and her rolls of an unfinished film captured between ‘50s and ’70s much later were found bringing her fame. Takada has his own explanation of things: using the self-appreciation concept, he created this peculiar line. We could hardy call it the most exquisite and promising collection, though we truly wish that the genuine inspirational background will help make it a success.
Photos courtesy of Vogue